Wilson blade 98- awful
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time_fly
Hall of Fame
Obviously shanks aren't going to have a lot of power. It sounds like your timing is off so you aren't squaring the ball up. The standard approach to lots of mis-hits is (a) make sure your swing isn't getting too long, especially on the take-back, (b) keep your head on the ball all the way through contact, and (c) keep taking more feeds or casual rally balls with a hitting partner to work out the timing.
I have this frame and while it is no Pure Drive or RF97, it has plenty of pop with a full swing.
I’m afraid the problem is new to this racquet. Its not a mishit in the sense ive caught the fram but like I need to put in twice the footwork just to get a clean contact which still feels powerless and dead
jackcrawford
Professional
YMMV, but it's not a Pure Drive type help with power. I would string it Hyper-G 17 @ 48 and see how that works for you. I don't think it will help you with power, but at that tension, it shouldn't hinder.
Dartagnan64
G.O.A.T.
It's not the stick it's the strings. Firm poly at 57lbs is likely way too high for a thin beam RA 62 racket. Start at 50lbs and work your way higher as needed. What was your prior frame if I may ask?
Babolat Pure Storm from 2011
Dartagnan64
G.O.A.T.
Stiffer lighter frame. Drop your tension to 52lbs on the poly.
Pure storm was probably more head light as well. Blade after stringing is close to even balance, so that probably has your timing all out of whack.
Similar to everyone else's recommendations, I would start tension at 48lbs and increase if needed.
Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
Similar to everyone else's recommendations, I would start tension at 48lbs and increase if needed.
Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk
16x19 blades are very polarizing on these forums, esp the v7. Some love them, and others absolutely hate them.
every 16x19 blade ive tried just felt very dull and unpredictable. I grew up playing six one 95 16x18s, and as much as i like open pattern sticks, the 18x20 just seemed like the better stick for every generation.
every 16x19 blade ive tried just felt very dull and unpredictable. I grew up playing six one 95 16x18s, and as much as i like open pattern sticks, the 18x20 just seemed like the better stick for every generation.
D
Deleted member 768841
Guest
The 16/19 is definitely a love or hate on this forum. I personally like the 16/19 v7, I am using it with lead in the handle and an Xcel Gel, as I don’t like how the leather feels.
LOBALOT
Hall of Fame
How can it be the strings if he is shanking the ball off the frame?
The blade has a higher swing weight. I don't think it would mater if 18x20 or 16x19. Perhaps the racquet is a bit too much to get around on the ball on time. A player certainly needs pretty decent technique and footwork and be ready early with the racquet.
oiler90
Rookie
Start with some tennis lessons. If you’re mis-hitting the ball, that’s in you. Everything you’ve said is ridiculous, outside of the fact the Blade is a low-power frame. I’m sure you did your homework before you purchased the racquet, and if you did, your surely read about the low-power “dead” feeling that frames like the Blade produce. In the proper hands, it’s a target blasting scalpel of a racquet.
oiler90
Rookie
Sorry to break it to you, but there is a market out there that enjoys using frames that are engineered specifically for “hindering powe(r) generation”.
Dartagnan64
G.O.A.T.
I didnt read that he was shanking but that the racket felt dead with no power.
if he can’t quickly adjust to a modest alteration in SW he needs to develop more flexible motor pathways. What does he do if the incoming ball is 10 mph faster with his usual racket? That simulates the same thing as a slower to swing frame and most of us can adapt just fine to variable ball speed.
I play golf where every club has a different weight and swing weight and I can hit that little white ball just fine. I never understand people that fall apart the second they grab a racket with slightly different specs than they are used to.
2nd Serve Ace
Hall of Fame
Wilson had the blade line totally perfected within the '13 and '15 versions, so I guess the v4 and v5 lines.
The 2 versions that followed are complete unholy abominations!
The 2 versions that followed are complete unholy abominations!
parasailing
Legend
I would disagree with you opinion on the v7.
It has more sw and softer so it all comes down to preference.
The v5 version is more crisp whereas the v7 is more plush.
FIRETennis
Professional
Blade v7 16x19 is one of the most comfortable, stable, "does everything well" all around racquet you can find today.
It is designed to play best at lower tensions.
Try ALU at 40-44lbs (not kidding) and you will be amazed at the spin, comfort and control.
It is designed to play best at lower tensions.
Try ALU at 40-44lbs (not kidding) and you will be amazed at the spin, comfort and control.
WYK
Hall of Fame
The problem here is that you are not Stan Wawrinka. He strings at 57lbs because he needs to in order to reign in the power and add control to a 370 gram racquet that he swings with near abandon. In a stick that is likely 30-40 grams lighter, with recreational strokes, you are just going to be punished with a tiny sweetspot, nothing but feedback, and much less power than if you had strung it at something more reasonable like 50lbs. In that racquet, you can likely get away with 45-48lbs and still have plenty of control. Cut that string out before you end up spending a month or more off from tennis, and your other favourite activity, due to tennis elbow.
Wall Ball Wizard
Rookie
IMO every iteration of the Blade going back to the 2013, the 18x20 has always out played the 16x19. Sounds like the OP should be looking at the Pure Strike 16x19, Ezone / Vcore 98's or the new Extreme Tour etc...
TennisHound
Legend
Whew, about as “Captain Obvious” as they come, especially this part - “Obviously shanks aren’t going to have a lot of power.” Haha, I’m still laughing over this.
Slowtwitcher
Legend
I've been shanking my forehand quite a bit lately. What string tension should I be using?
Villain
Professional
Your racquet is a Dunlop Max 200g right? 84 sq inches and a tight 18x20? The only way you’ll get those shanks under control is stringing 4G or Kevlar in a full bed at 75 pounds minimum.
Slowtwitcher
Legend
TennisHound
Legend
Lets examine some of the quality replies:
-"...shanks aren't going to have a lot of power". That is probably the #1 comment of the thread. Haha
-"...you aren't squaring the ball up"- What does that even mean? The balls are circular, right?
-"...keep your head on the ball" - Tough to put your head on any moving object. I've seen it done in soccer, though.
-"How can it be the strings if he is shanking the ball off the frame?" - Lol, good play
-"...it’s a target blasting scalpel of a racquet." - I just like saying that over an over.
-"...get better." - That's all you need to do. Haha
-"...develop more flexible motor pathways." - Its so simple, yet so brilliant, lol
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LOBALOT
Hall of Fame
It did indicate that before it was edited and now deleted.
WYK
Hall of Fame
I dunno. There's a thread people are taking seriously in the stringing section about a scratch on a custom racquet that begins with "...whilst I was spending the summer in my parents' holiday home...".
jackcrawford
Professional
Good start, but even better is saw a quarter inch off racket so it's 26.75 long, 40 pound string tension differential with kevlar mains @ 75 and 4G crosses @ 115, enough lead to bring frame up to SW2 of 375.
Villain
Professional
Dartagnan64
G.O.A.T.
Ok must have missed it then. But it sounds like lower tensions helped so problem solved I guess.
oiler90
Rookie
hey man, I'm a teaching pro, I'm always gonna push someone toward taking another lesson!
Dartagnan64
G.O.A.T.
And as a pro would you ever buy into a problem with shanking as an equipment problem vs. a technique problem?
I can't imagine any pro, teaching or otherwise that would lay the responsibility for shanks on the frame.
oiler90
Rookie
Most adults of reasonable strength can handle any racquet once they spend time using it for a while. They’re game will literally compensate for the frame weight. I would most commonly place the so-called blame on the frame only when someone makes a sudden switch from one racquet weight to the extreme opposite end of the proverbial scale. Even so, after a while the player would once again learn to compensate for the change in weight.
