Benefits of an upgrade?

[cincyMike]

I am currently using the Gamma x-2 2 point drop weight stringer with floating clamps. I really enjoy stringing my own rackets and am always looking to improve my results.

I really don't mind the drop weight stringer setup so I was considering upgrading to the Gamma Progression II 602 FC Stringing Machine or the Alpha Pioneer DC Plus due to the fixed clamps and 6 pt mount. My question is, what is the benefit to the 6 point mounting system and the fixed clamps? Will I receive more consistent and quality results? Or is the cost not worth it to upgrade to one of these machines?

Any feedback is appreciated.

 

[Irvin]

Fixed clamps are much easier to use. Drop weight to drop weight no advantage. 2 point to 6 point is more personal preference than anything. I would stay where you are.

 

[eelhc]

Do you have a starting clamp? That would be the first upgrade. Second upgrade would be to replace the plastic Gamma floating clamps with a Stringway Double and Triple. Kudos to you.. I can't imagine anyone enjoying stringing with those plastic clamps....

 

[cincyMike]

Do you have a starting clamp? That would be the first upgrade. Second upgrade would be to replace the plastic Gamma floating clamps with a Stringway Double and Triple. Kudos to you.. I can't imagine anyone enjoying stringing with those plastic clamps....

Those plastic clamps are one of the primary reasons I wanted to upgrade. I couldn't imagine that they don't slip a little. They are very harsh on the strings as well if set to tight. Also I do not currently use a starting clamp, and its funny you mention that because the first few strings typically seem to be the most inconsistent tension wise with the pluck test. I think I will look at these upgrades that you are suggesting before investing a larger amount of money in what appears to be a non significant change. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[eelhc]

Those plastic clamps are one of the primary reasons I wanted to upgrade. I couldn't imagine that they don't slip a little. They are very harsh on the strings as well if set to tight. Also I do not currently use a starting clamp, and its funny you mention that because the first few strings typically seem to be the most inconsistent tension wise with the pluck test. I think I will look at these upgrades that you are suggesting before investing a larger amount of money in what appears to be a non significant change. Thanks for the feedback.

Check out this video of the Stringway clamps in use.

https://youtu.be/LEGfJ3OChdo

Easy one handed clamp/unclamp operation. The action on them is nice with positive "click". They are also VERY gentle on the strings.

A triple, double and a starting clamps are ~$150 delivered from Alpha tennis I recall and they are well worth the investment.

When/if you do decide to upgrade, I personally would not go with another drop weight. IMO crank lockouts are more consistent than a dropweight.

 

[mad dog1]

Check out this video of the Stringway clamps in use.

https://youtu.be/LEGfJ3OChdo

Easy one handed clamp/unclamp operation. The action on them is nice with positive "click". They are also VERY gentle on the strings.

A triple, double and a starting clamps are ~$150 delivered from Alpha tennis I recall and they are well worth the investment.

When/if you do decide to upgrade, I personally would not go with another drop weight. IMO crank lockouts are more consistent than a dropweight.

unless it's a stringway auto dropweight.

 

[eelhc]

unless it's a stringway auto dropweight.

True... Had one of those too.

 

[loosegroove]

I agree that a starting clamp and some Stringway flying clamps would be a great upgrade and you could keep your machine. I'd even prefer that to the Gamma 602FC for my needs. I was lucky and scored 2 Stringway double clamps for $50 in the classifieds section. Otherwise, I'd upgrade to a crank with fixed clamps or glide bars.

 

[cincyMike]

I agree that a starting clamp and some Stringway flying clamps would be a great upgrade and you could keep your machine. I'd even prefer that to the Gamma 602FC for my needs. I was lucky and scored 2 Stringway double clamps for $50 in the classifieds section. Otherwise, I'd upgrade to a crank with fixed clamps or glide bars.

Speak of the devil. I just found a Gamma Progression ST crank with fixed clamps for 350 in my area. With the 6 point mount system, fixed clamps and crank system, would that merit an upgrade of a 2 point drop weight? I string about 6 rackets per month so figure that I'm saving 15-20 labor per racket considering string jobs cost 30-35 where I live. Thanks

 

[Muppet]

I asked this in another thread but never got a reply, so I'd like to try again here.

I have an Alpha Pioneer DC+ dropweight w/fixed clamps, linear gripper, and a 6-point mount. The build is really sturdy and heavy, which I'm happy with. The problem is that there's some give in the fixed clamps. And they don't click into place securely.

Would the Stringway clamps be an upgrade to what I have? Would they be much less convenient to use?

 

[loosegroove]

Speak of the devil. I just found a Gamma Progression ST crank with fixed clamps for 350 in my area. With the 6 point mount system, fixed clamps and crank system, would that merit an upgrade of a 2 point drop weight? I string about 6 rackets per month so figure that I'm saving 15-20 labor per racket considering string jobs cost 30-35 where I live. Thanks

Yeah, I think so. And you could still get decent coin for your Gamma X-2, so the upgrade could cost you like $175 after selling your old machine.

 

[diredesire]

Speak of the devil. I just found a Gamma Progression ST crank with fixed clamps for 350 in my area. With the 6 point mount system, fixed clamps and crank system, would that merit an upgrade of a 2 point drop weight? I string about 6 rackets per month so figure that I'm saving 15-20 labor per racket considering string jobs cost 30-35 where I live. Thanks

Just note that's the older machine with the wingnut style clamps. I don't like those clamps, but they work OK. They're pretty weird to use, and they require more force to torque down. It's still a good machine if it's in good shape. $350 is an OK deal, I'd ask to bring the price down to $300 at least, though

I asked this in another thread but never got a reply, so I'd like to try again here.

I have an Alpha Pioneer DC+ dropweight w/fixed clamps, linear gripper, and a 6-point mount. The build is really sturdy and heavy, which I'm happy with. The problem is that there's some give in the fixed clamps. And they don't click into place securely.

Would the Stringway clamps be an upgrade to what I have? Would they be much less convenient to use?

Which stringway clamps are you referring to? You should be able to R&R your clamps -- contact mark@alphatennis.com -- he'll probably send you some instructions for resetting them back to factory settings -- if not, he'll probably help you get them refinished if you ship 'em back in (if you're not mechanically inclined)

 

[loosegroove]

Just note that's the older machine with the wingnut style clamps. I don't like those clamps, but they work OK. They're pretty weird to use, and they require more force to torque down. It's still a good machine if it's in good shape. $350 is an OK deal, I'd ask to bring the price down to $300 at least, though

Good catch, I was immediately thinking of the ST II. Those wingnut style fixed clamps seem like they'd be pretty cumbersome to use. I feel like it would be pretty slow going with those.

 

[cincyMike]

Just note that's the older machine with the wingnut style clamps. I don't like those clamps, but they work OK. They're pretty weird to use, and they require more force to torque down. It's still a good machine if it's in good shape. $350 is an OK deal, I'd ask to bring the price down to $300 at least, though

The machine is in pristine condition. I don't think the guy even used the machine much. It was pretty funny, it ended up being a guy I grew up playing as a junior with at my home club. Small world.

He did end up taking $300 for it (Thanks for the suggestion). I can see what you are referring to with the fixed clamps and the wing nut. That will be an adjustment for sure. Although they will probably take a little longer to set, I would like to think they will secure the string better than my plastic floating clamps.

I will report back tonight after I do my first string job. I have used my brother's lockout machine a few times so I am pretty familiar with the process. I haven't actually mounted the frame yet, but I have to say I wonder if that 6 point mount system will make it difficult to feed the string through certain grommet holes... I am so used to everything being so open with my 2 point. I also am surprised that there are no clamps that go over the racket to hold it down like on the x-2.

 

[diredesire]

The machine is in pristine condition. I don't think the guy even used the machine much. It was pretty funny, it ended up being a guy I grew up playing as a junior with at my home club. Small world.

He did end up taking $300 for it (Thanks for the suggestion). I can see what you are referring to with the fixed clamps and the wing nut. That will be an adjustment for sure. Although they will probably take a little longer to set, I would like to think they will secure the string better than my plastic floating clamps.

I will report back tonight after I do my first string job. I have used my brother's lockout machine a few times so I am pretty familiar with the process. I haven't actually mounted the frame yet, but I have to say I wonder if that 6 point mount system will make it difficult to feed the string through certain grommet holes... I am so used to everything being so open with my 2 point. I also am surprised that there are no clamps that go over the racket to hold it down like on the x-2.

They're not too bad, they're just very awkward. They hold fine, keep things clean.

The mounting problem is a non-issue if you take time to prep. Inspect your holes, if you have any blocked, move the 6/12 mounts up or down (simultaneously!) to unblock that specific hole. If you can't navigate this to have 0 holes blocked, undo one of your mounts from the bottom, and re-secure it at a different location. Adjust 6/12 again, and rinse and repeat.

Sounds like a long process, but it takes all of about 2 minutes tops.

 

[Muppet]

Which stringway clamps are you referring to? You should be able to R&R your clamps -- contact mark@alphatennis.com -- he'll probably send you some instructions for resetting them back to factory settings -- if not, he'll probably help you get them refinished if you ship 'em back in (if you're not mechanically inclined)

I was referring to the double flying clamp and the triple flying clamp. The clamp bases on my Pioneer stringer aren't holding up that great. One of them has a lot of drawback and the other has lost its ability for the lever to spring back when locking the clamp base into place.

Sure click action is not a feature that was built into these clamp bases. I usually put more effort than I need to trying to make sure they're secure. And I'm probably wearing them out faster in the process. If I have them rehabed, they still won't click in place and that's something that I'd like to have.

I've read that the Stringway flying clamps operate well and click in when engaged. What do you think about it? Should I send Mark an e-mail?

 

[diredesire]

I was referring to the double flying clamp and the triple flying clamp. The clamp bases on my Pioneer stringer aren't holding up that great. One of them has a lot of drawback and the other has lost its ability for the lever to spring back when locking the clamp base into place.

Sure click action is not a feature that was built into these clamp bases. I usually put more effort than I need to trying to make sure they're secure. And I'm probably wearing them out faster in the process. If I have them rehabed, they still won't click in place and that's something that I'd like to have.

I've read that the Stringway flying clamps operate well and click in when engaged. What do you think about it? Should I send Mark an e-mail?

You should refer to it as switch action, or spring assisted (although spring assisted is a broader term than what you're referring to). Clicking is not a feature that is necessarily desirable rather than tactile feedback. I'd take working fixed clamps over flying clamps that happen to click.

I'd definitely talk with mark and ask him how to get your clamps back to like-new. If it's still no good after that you can consider new clamps, but I wouldn't switch to SW clamps over reasonable fixed ones.

 

[Muppet]

You should refer to it as switch action, or spring assisted (although spring assisted is a broader term than what you're referring to). Clicking is not a feature that is necessarily desirable rather than tactile feedback. I'd take working fixed clamps over flying clamps that happen to click.

I'd definitely talk with mark and ask him how to get your clamps back to like-new. If it's still no good after that you can consider new clamps, but I wouldn't switch to SW clamps over reasonable fixed ones.

Thanks dd. The fixed clamps are working fine. I may ask Mark how to fix them up. I'll take your advice on them being preferable to any flying clamps. Thanks for saving me $100+.

 

[cincyMike]

I wanted to report back after my first couple of jobs and give feedback on the change from my x-2 to the x-st.

Likes
- I like the lockout mechanism, slightly faster and gives very consistent results.
- Fixed clamps are great, thought I would not like the wing nut style system, but it doesn't really bother me at all.

Dislikes
- 6 pt mounting system.. I have to say that this has been the biggest issue slowing me down. Don't have as much room to work with when stringing the crosses and also setting it so that no grommet holes are blocked has proven challenging. I like the ease of actually mounting the racket, but the system definitely slows me down in comparison to the 2 point on the older machine once I get going.

 

[Irvin]

You should be able to avoid the blocked holes without too much trouble once you learn to use the 6 and 12 supports. Moving the 6 / 12 supports out moves the frame farther from the standard / side supports. Adjust the side supports so they are close to the frame but not touching. Position the frame so a grommet holes are just covered up by the side supports so the string will be pulled without touching the side support and adjust the 6 / 12 supports so they are centered on the frame. Then adjust your side supports.

 

[eelhc]

I wanted to report back after my first couple of jobs and give feedback on the change from my x-2 to the x-st.

Likes
- I like the lockout mechanism, slightly faster and gives very consistent results.
- Fixed clamps are great, thought I would not like the wing nut style system, but it doesn't really bother me at all.

Dislikes
- 6 pt mounting system.. I have to say that this has been the biggest issue slowing me down. Don't have as much room to work with when stringing the crosses and also setting it so that no grommet holes are blocked has proven challenging. I like the ease of actually mounting the racket, but the system definitely slows me down in comparison to the 2 point on the older machine once I get going.

I agree a crank lockout is much more consistent than a dropweight (minus Stringway).

I sidegraded from a 6 point to a 2 point mount machine. Quicker mounting and no blocked grommets.

The newer Gammas come with v shaped shoulder adapters that don't block the grommets quite so much... Contact gamma tech and see if they will work on your machine.

 

[struggle]

I've upgraded to the V shaped mounts on my 6004 but i never really had a problem with the old mounts. I think this is an overblown issue, I never had a "blocked" grommet i couldn't work around although the V-mounts do make it easier.

 

[diredesire]

Thanks dd. The fixed clamps are working fine. I may ask Mark how to fix them up. I'll take your advice on them being preferable to any flying clamps. Thanks for saving me $100+.

LF Clamps are very good for floaters, that's to be sure. I'd R&R, but LF clamps aren't necessarily a bad tool to have on hand. :twisted:

I wanted to report back after my first couple of jobs and give feedback on the change from my x-2 to the x-st.

Likes
- I like the lockout mechanism, slightly faster and gives very consistent results.
- Fixed clamps are great, thought I would not like the wing nut style system, but it doesn't really bother me at all.

Dislikes
- 6 pt mounting system.. I have to say that this has been the biggest issue slowing me down. Don't have as much room to work with when stringing the crosses and also setting it so that no grommet holes are blocked has proven challenging. I like the ease of actually mounting the racket, but the system definitely slows me down in comparison to the 2 point on the older machine once I get going.

Good to hear. The Wing Nut style is A-OK. They're perfectly functional, just cumbersome to work with since they're uncomfortable to crank/release. I wouldn't want to work with them for an entire day, but job-to-job, no problems.

Look at my post above on adjustments, report back once you've tried that method. Proper planning and prep is key, here.

You should be able to avoid the blocked holes without too much trouble once you learn to use the 6 and 12 supports. Moving the 6 / 12 supports out moves the frame farther from the standard / side supports. Adjust the side supports so they are close to the frame but not touching. Position the frame so a grommet holes are just covered up by the side supports so the string will be pulled without touching the side support and adjust the 6 / 12 supports so they are centered on the frame. Then adjust your side supports.

You can have your support billiards sized/adjusted so this never becomes easy. Don't be afraid to move the supports! This is not really a possibility if you have one of the newer turn tables that adjust both supports simultaneously, however. I also go a step further -- I always ensure that my 6/12 are adjusted very far out into "space." The tip and throat are always far away from the 6/12 "pads." This allows for a lot of extra space for your clamps when you're working with frames with very high (or low) outside crosses. The nTour series comes to mind.

I've upgraded to the V shaped mounts on my 6004 but i never really had a problem with the old mounts. I think this is an overblown issue, I never had a "blocked" grommet i couldn't work around although the V-mounts do make it easier.

It's accurately "blown" (IMO) - you only need to have a blocked CAPS grommet once to jump fully onboard the complain-train It gets worse when you have a blocked hole and are working with a very soft string AND you can't control the angle of approach with that said soft string. V mounts are (IMHO again) completely superior mounts. The only reason companies weren't using them before is because of a long-standing Babolat patent that expired.

 

[Irvin]

....You can have your support billiards sized/adjusted so this never become s easy. Don't be afraid to move the supports! This is not really a possibility if you have one of the newer turn tables that adjust both supports simultaneously...

I never bothered with avoiding blocked hole unless I was stringing a racket with CAP grommets on my 6004. It had self centering mounts as you speak of and I never had a problem avoiding blocked holes after I got the hand of it.

 

[ccmtennis]

I was thinking about this same "upgrade" so I would appreciate some more advice from those of you much more advanced stringers. I have been using the X2 for about 3 months now and my greatest frustration is getting the tension right when stringing up a full bed of poly. I read a number of things stating that the stringway clamps could be as good as any fixed clamps. I have a good offer to sell my x2 already. For a less seasoned stringer like myself, should just go with the fixed clamps? I am not too worried about the time it takes to string it up

 

[loosegroove]

ccmtennis, what's the issue? Are the clamps slipping?

 

[eelhc]

ccmtennis, what's the issue? Are the clamps slipping?

Gamma plastic floating clamps will take any enjoyment out of stringing. They're a real PITA to adjust, open and close. They also twist significantly.

Stringway floating clamps will be a significant improvement. If the budget allows an upgrade to a fixed clamp machine with a crank lockout tensioner would be the preference.

 

[ccmtennis]

ccmtennis, what's the issue? Are the clamps slipping?

Yes it seems like it does slip quite a bit

 

[ccmtennis]

Gamma plastic floating clamps will take any enjoyment out of stringing. They're a real PITA to adjust, open and close. They also twist significantly.

Stringway floating clamps will be a significant improvement. If the budget allows an upgrade to a fixed clamp machine with a crank lockout tensioner would be the preference.

Are the SW clamps comparable to fixed clamps or even anything close to it ?

 

[cknobman]

Reading all these benefits everyone is talking about but have not seen much about the main/biggest benefit of a string machine upgrade:

Speed.

As for quality, consistency, dependability I would put my Klippermate against just about any other machine. Dropweight machines are incredibly consistent and dependable. They are just slow.

 

[eelhc]

Are the SW clamps comparable to fixed clamps or even anything close to it ?

IMO... they are as good or even better in some cases vs low quality fixed clamps (I'm comparing to the Eagnas Flex 940 I used to have). The issue with floating clamps is twisting and pinching of the strings for different spacings. With the double and the triple Stringways, this problem is mitigated but not eliminated. Having had 4 different types of floating clamps..

Stringway >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Eagnas/e.Stringer >>> Gamma

I've never used the Klippermate floating clamps so I can't comment.

Reading all these benefits everyone is talking about but have not seen much about the main/biggest benefit of a string machine upgrade:

Speed.

As for quality, consistency, dependability I would put my Klippermate against just about any other machine. Dropweight machines are incredibly consistent and dependable. They are just slow.

Quality yes, dependability yes, consistency no.

 

[ccmtennis]

IMO... they are as good or even better in some cases vs low quality fixed clamps (I'm comparing to the Eagnas Flex 940 I used to have). The issue with floating clamps is twisting and pinching of the strings for different spacings. With the double and the triple Stringways, this problem is mitigated but not eliminated. Having had 4 different types of floating clamps..

Stringway >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Eagnas/e.Stringer >>> Gamma

I've never used the Klippermate floating clamps so I can't comment.



Quality yes, dependability yes, consistency no.

Thanks, but then do you consider Gamma Progression II 602 FC an upgrade? I don't want to have to spend more than the price of this machine but I would be willing to stick to the x2 if you think the SW clamps alone would suffice

 

[seekay]

Stringway >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Eagnas/e.Stringer >>> Gamma

I've never used the Klippermate floating clamps so I can't comment.

The Klippermate clamps are vise grips with a clamp assembly welded onto the gripper end. Vice grips have a tried-and-true mechanism for locking down to the exact jaw width you want and then easily popping back open, and I found those qualities translated really well to a tennis clamp.

The main downside is that they're not as wide as a lot of other tennis clamps, and as a result, they tend to twist more than others might.

I'd expect Klippermate clamps to fall somewhere in that big gap between Stringway and Eagnas.

 

[eelhc]

Thanks, but then do you consider Gamma Progression II 602 FC an upgrade? I don't want to have to spend more than the price of this machine but I would be willing to stick to the x2 if you think the SW clamps alone would suffice

I would not upgrade to the 602 FC. Get the stringway double+triple and a starting clamp if you already don't have one. It'll be fine until you have the budget for a better machine.

Keep an eye out for a used Gamma 5003, 6004 or a NEOS in the meantime.

 

[cknobman]

Quality yes, dependability yes, consistency no.

Why do you say no for consistency?

The all metal vice grips that Klippermate uses for clamps are really good for floating clamps and never offer slip if you keep them clean.

 

[eelhc]

Why do you say no for consistency?

The all metal vice grips that Klippermate uses for clamps are really good for floating clamps and never offer slip if you keep them clean.

Check out this thread for details...

http://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/showthread.php?t=533528

But net...
Go string monogut zx on a 16x15 frame and let me know how those Klippermate clamps and dropweight tensioner works out for you.

 

[cknobman]

@eelhc I've been posting in that thread too.

Once you get used to a Klippermate you can hit the sweetspot on the first drop 90% of the time.

In fact I'd say that as long as you dont have problems getting the drop right a dropwieght will actually give you a more consistent tension than an electronic pull or spring will. It never wears out, gets out of calibration, or gives.

As for the really open string patterns I agree that with the small Klippermate clamps its probably no fun. Thankfully I've never had to do a really open string pattern on a Klippermate.

 

[eelhc]

@eelhc I've been posting in that thread too.

Once you get used to a Klippermate you can hit the sweetspot on the first drop 90% of the time.

In fact I'd say that as long as you dont have problems getting the drop right a dropwieght will actually give you a more consistent tension than an electronic pull or spring will. It never wears out, gets out of calibration, or gives.

As for the really open string patterns I agree that with the small Klippermate clamps its probably no fun. Thankfully I've never had to do a really open string pattern on a Klippermate.

You're pretty good hitting the sweetspot 90% of the time.... I could probably get there with practice on a dropweight however my NEOS crank hits it 100% of the time.

I check my NEOS once in a while but rarely need to calibrate it (in fact just once right after I bought it)... I string ~2 frames/week. I think the whole idea that dropweights have better accuracy since they rely on gravity is a bit overblown IMO.

 

[seekay]

You're pretty good hitting the sweetspot 90% of the time.... I could probably get there with practice on a dropweight however my NEOS crank hits it 100% of the time.

I check my NEOS once in a while but rarely need to calibrate it (in fact just once right after I bought it)... I string ~2 frames/week. I think the whole idea that dropweights have better accuracy since they rely on gravity is a bit overblown IMO.

Dropweights have better accuracy because they use a constant pull mechanism. If the string is relaxing when your NEOS locks out, you'll be clamping at something below your reference tension. That can be very consistent and repeatable ("precise"), but it differs from the tension you meant to pull, so it's less accurate than other methods.

 

[eelhc]

Dropweights have better accuracy because they use a constant pull mechanism. If the string is relaxing when your NEOS locks out, you'll be clamping at something below your reference tension. That can be very consistent and repeatable ("precise"), but it differs from the tension you meant to pull, so it's less accurate than other methods.

Dropweights pull accurate tension because they rely on simple gravity... But accuracy is not necessarily consistency. If you're as good as cknobman and can pull reference tension with a single drop of the weight 90% of the time, it'll mean consistency. But if you have to raise/lower the arm mulltiple times the whole gravity argument is moot. Again, take a stretch string like Monogut ZX and see if you can pull tension with a drop weight with the same number of weight drops and lifts on each and every pull. Try it and report back.

 

[Irvin]

Dropweights have better accuracy because they use a constant pull mechanism. If the string is relaxing when your NEOS locks out, you'll be clamping at something below your reference tension. That can be very consistent and repeatable ("precise"), but it differs from the tension you meant to pull, so it's less accurate than other methods.

If you string on a crank machine and you like the tension when the tension is set to 60# then that's the tension you meant to pull. More often than not DW machines use flying clamps and you loose a lot of tension with then them.

Also with a DW the only real section of string that is cp is that section of string between the racket and the tensioner. After tensioning a string the tension on the outside the frame is always at about reference tension while the tension inside the frame is not. There must be a tension difference between the string outside the frame and ste string inside the frame to overcome the string to frame friction before the string inside the frame is ever tensioned more.

Then there is the problem with flying clamps. You've got your tension pulled and you're ready to move the clamps. The instant you remove the clamp the bar falls down. What do you do now?

 

[seekay]

Dropweights pull accurate tension because they rely on simple gravity... But accuracy is not necessarily consistency.

I want to be clear that it's less about gravity and more about constant pull vs. lock-out. There are electronic constant pull machines, and I think there's at least one that's pneumatically powered. They're all capable of good accuracy because they can accommodate string elongation during the pull.

You're entirely correct that simple mechanisms tend to be imprecise. If I had to pick between my old X-2 and your NEOS, I'd definitely string on the NEOS; it's a much better machine and more capable of creating a consistent stringjob over and over again. The NEOS is less accurate, but better in other areas that more than compensate.

Try it and report back.

I strung some Monogut ZX crosses last week and used a single perfect pull every time. But I was cheating using an electronic tension head

 

[seekay]

If you string on a crank machine and you like the tension when the tension is set to 60# then that's the tension you meant to pull.

You do love pedantry, Irvin I suspect you know what I meant.

The point is there's a difference between reference and pulled tensions for most strings on a lock-out system. The stringer should be aware of that, and with proper consideration, it doesn't have to be a problem.

Then there is the problem with flying clamps. You've got your tension pulled and you're ready to move the clamps. The instant you remove the clamp the bar falls down. What do you do now?

I don't recall encountering that in practice, but you adjust the bar to pull reference tension before you re-clamp. And you should probably check your clamps for slippage. No biggie in the big picture.

 

[cknobman]

Dropweights pull accurate tension because they rely on simple gravity... But accuracy is not necessarily consistency. If you're as good as cknobman and can pull reference tension with a single drop of the weight 90% of the time, it'll mean consistency. But if you have to raise/lower the arm mulltiple times the whole gravity argument is moot.

I think the key for my ability to get by with single drops so often on my Klippermate is due to several things.

A. I have had tons of practice on it (going on 3 years).

B. I dont string for anyone but me which means unless I change racquets there is no guesswork on how to string it.

C. Once I found a poly I liked I bought a reel of it. Now I know its characteristics very well. I know how much it will stretch on each drop and I have a pretty good idea of how much string to put through the gripper to get the weight where I want it to be on the first drop.

D. Multis - I use a variety of those but multis dont really stretch much IMO.

So I am confident I get an accurate and consistent tension on my Klipper. I just takes me 45+ minutes to do it.

 

[Irvin]

Reference tension = pulled tension

You do love pedantry, Irvin ...The point is there's a difference between reference and pulled tensions for most strings on a lock-out system...

The point is there is NO difference between reference and pulled on any type of tensioner. There is a difference between reference (pulled tension) and the tension you have on the strings when you're finished.

 

[seekay]

The point is there is NO difference between reference and pulled on any type of tensioner.

It sounds like you're defining reference tension as the tension of the string after it's pulled. That definition is incorrect, in part because a reference should not vary between machines.

Reference tension is the tension that the tension head is instructed/configured to pull.

There is a difference between reference (pulled tension) and the tension you have on the strings when you're finished.

That's clearly true; there are many factors which could cause the actual tension in the racquet to be lower than the reference tension. But most of them affect different machines equally, so they have questionable relevance when discussing why dropweight machines are claimed to be more accurate than cranks.

 

[ccmtennis]

I would not upgrade to the 602 FC. Get the stringway double+triple and a starting clamp if you already don't have one. It'll be fine until you have the budget for a better machine.

Keep an eye out for a used Gamma 5003, 6004 or a NEOS in the meantime.

Thanks appreciate the reply and I'll try the SW clamps and report back

 

[rusty0412]

I am also considering getting the SW clamps. Why would you get a double at all if the triple reduces twisting/drawback? If you get the double, when stringing the mains, you would get one side with less twisting/drawback because you are using the triple. The other side you are getting all the normal twisting/drawback due to the double. Am I missing something?

 

[eelhc]

I am also considering getting the SW clamps. Why would you get a double at all if the triple reduces twisting/drawback? If you get the double, when stringing the mains, you would get one side with less twisting/drawback because you are using the triple. The other side you are getting all the normal twisting/drawback due to the double. Am I missing something?

Triples twist less because when they are clamping 3 strings. They also twist less when they are clamping 2 wider spaced strings because the pinching is not as extreme as the double. You can string with two doubles, a double and a triple or 2 triples... Alpha sells them in a-la-carte or in packages.

A tip when using a triples on the center mains is to use one on the top of the stringbed and one on the bottom. One can clamp strings right next to each other without the clamps interfering with each other.