Confusion of string types Nylon,monofilament, co/poly

phl92

Hall of Fame
English is not my native tongue, but since we use almost the same terms in german for strings, I should be able to understand.

I am trying to understand the world of strings a little bit better.
Following terms I heard and read all the time, but I think some of them are used in alternating terms:

Nylon
Monofilament
Natural Gut
Poly
Co-Poly
Kevlar
Multi/Poly filament

Ok I know what is Natural gut.
Nylon I thought is actually also used for so called monofilament strings, right?
Kevlar I see rarely used.

Now I ordered at 2 different companies testrackets..., one is stringed with a Wilson Revolve 1,25. A website presents this string as a monofil polyester string. (Isa this equatable with a Co-Poly string???)
My other test racquets will be strung with Adrenaline Century 20, where information says monofil Co-Polyester.

These little details makes it very confusing to have an idea which is which.

So is Nylon=monofilament
and Monofil Polyester = Co Polyester?
 

Muppet

Legend
English is not my native tongue, but since we use almost the same terms in german for strings, I should be able to understand.

I am trying to understand the world of strings a little bit better.
Following terms I heard and read all the time, but I think some of them are used in alternating terms:

Nylon
Monofilament
Natural Gut
Poly
Co-Poly
Kevlar
Multi/Poly filament

Ok I know what is Natural gut.
Nylon I thought is actually also used for so called monofilament strings, right?
Kevlar I see rarely used.

Now I ordered at 2 different companies testrackets..., one is stringed with a Wilson Revolve 1,25. A website presents this string as a monofil polyester string. (Isa this equatable with a Co-Poly string???)
My other test racquets will be strung with Adrenaline Century 20, where information says monofil Co-Polyester.

These little details makes it very confusing to have an idea which is which.

So is Nylon=monofilament
and Monofil Polyester = Co Polyester?
Monofilament is a construction. Another name for this is solid core. The manufacturers use differing materials.
Nylon, natural gut, poly, and co-poly are materials. Poly is an older formulation and co-poly uses additives and other treatments to affect the performance and longevity of the string.
Multifilament is a fiber cluster and it is another construction. The most common type is a nylon multi.
Poly filament Is a multifilament made of polyester fibers.

I hope you find this helpful.
 
Last edited:

phl92

Hall of Fame
Thank you.
So if someone says you should string a multi... this actually means not so much since it can be different kind of materials.
 

esgee48

G.O.A.T.
Muppet basically said it. I try not to say poly since that implies polyester. Co-poly implies using different polymers in the material of the string. Said co-polymers include types of Nylon, types of polyesters, other types of polymers such as PU, PEEK, etc.

Mono core just means the string is one extruded piece. Multifibre means the string is made up of various strands of material that is either woven together of encased in a matrix. In either case, the material of the string can be anything described in the paragraph above. When manufacturers say 'mono core', they imply a single solid string at the center of the string. You may or may not have wraps encasing that string, but it can still be described as mono core..
 

phl92

Hall of Fame

I found this Tool quite usefull.
Does it make sense to sort for Spinfriendly and Stiffness and then choose the best performers. My goal is to find a string which is very spinfriendly but not as stiff.
Or are strings like rackets.. specs on paper is not really appicable?
 

fuzz nation

G.O.A.T.
Thank you.
So if someone says you should string a multi... this actually means not so much since it can be different kind of materials.

Although they have different materials in their individual recipes, most multis are relatively soft. I like to keep a reel of Prince Premier Control on hand for occasional string jobs that need a multi. This string in comprised of mostly the tiny filaments that we see with most multis, but it also has three little monofilaments bundled together at the core. These might give the string a little better resistance to softening over time compared with some others in the family, but it's still a soft string - perhaps slightly more firm than something like Wilson Sensation that is made entirely with tiny filaments.


I found this Tool quite usefull.
Does it make sense to sort for Spinfriendly and Stiffness and then choose the best performers. My goal is to find a string which is very spinfriendly but not as stiff.
Or are strings like rackets.. specs on paper is not really appicable?

If you're looking for some inherent spin in your string layout, but you don't want it to be too stiff, I recommend trying a hybrid that includes a rather light gauge poly or co-poly main combined with a softer cross like a 16 ga. synthetic gut. The version of this hybrid that I've installed in recent years for some local players with much success is Isospeed Baseline 1.20mm mains and Gosen OG Sheep Micro 16 crosses.

A full bed of a thin gauge of poly will likely "go dead" rather quickly, but a hybrid will likely degrade at a much more gradual rate. Gosen OGSM seems to perform well as a cross with a poly because it's rather durable and it's also somewhat slippery.

One or two more notes on string terms:

Nylon: often the "old-fashioned" term used to refer to synthetic gut or tournament nylon that preceded it. Synthetic gut is still a great option for many players and if you haven't sampled a few different sets of this string, you might want to consider them now. Syn. gut is generally slightly more firm than multifiber, but not as stiff as a poly. I love its combo of moderate softness and crisp feel in my own frames. It's also generally more affordable than premium multifibers or exotic polys/co-polys (y)

Polys/Co-Polys: I often refer to all of these as "polys", but some newer co-polys offer a little more softness than early generation polys ("co-poly" indicates that the string is made from a blend of materials, not just one sort of poly). The differences are subtle though, and if a player is looking for an arm-friendly string to perhaps protect a sensitive elbow or wrist, I do NOT recommend a "softer" co-poly for this case. Multi or even syn. gut is likely the smarter choice. Natural gut is still the very best string for anybody who needs maximum comfort from their string bed.

Kevlar: this is a super-tough fiber that can be braided into an extremely durable string, but it's usually only used in a hybrid combined with a syn. gut or multifiber cross. That sort of hybrid seemed to be a little more popular a few years ago, but lots of players today seem to gravitate toward the toughness of a poly hybrid that might also seem to offer better performance for some players. Some folks still like Kevlar, but its popularity has probably diminished because so many of the pros on TV use polys.

...and now we break for coffee...
 

Slash007

Rookie
The tennis warehouse tool is great, solinco tour bite is one that scores high on the spin coefficient and this forum tends to like it.

But it really is a Goldilocks paradigm ass too much spin tend to be paired with lower accuracy ( it will be harder to hit targets consistently ). In the end of the day you only need enough spin to hit consistently deep balls.

If you are a beginner, please consider soft strings like synthetic gut duraflex( no to poly) until you learn how to hit hard but protecting small joints. I started with bad tennis equipment and after 10 years I gave up on my wrist ever recovering 100%

Then you can try poly at 30- 50 lbs. Then the stuff that pros use. Don’t worry the progression may be quick.

Also any strings can produce tons of spin with proper strokes.

The softest spiny combo is nat gut mains, poly crosses, I really want to try a monogut ZX/ round co poly to see if it can be any good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

phl92

Hall of Fame
The tennis warehouse tool is great, solinco tour bite is one that scores high on the spin coefficient and this forum tends to like it.

But it really is a Goldilocks paradigm ass too much spin tend to be paired with lower accuracy ( it will be harder to hit targets consistently ). In the end of the day you only need enough spin to hit consistently deep balls.

If you are a beginner, please consider soft strings like synthetic gut duraflex( no to poly) until you learn how to hit hard but protecting small joints. I started with bad tennis equipment and after 10 years I gave up on my wrist ever recovering 100%

Then you can try poly at 30- 50 lbs. Then the stuff that pros use. Don’t worry the progression may be quick.

Also any strings can produce tons of spin with proper strokes.

The softest spiny combo is nat gut mains, poly crosses, I really want to try a monogut ZX/ round co poly to see if it can be any good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I will follow this advice since I still struggle with backhand and service.
Atm I am using a full bed of natural Babo VS Gut but unfortunately my budget is not good enough to have this permanently.
I will try your mentioned syntetic gut... (which is nylon right?).
 

Slash007

Rookie
Tour bite is a squared shaped monofilament made of a co poly that is soft for a poly ( stiffer than nylon)

Synthetic gut duraflex is a solid nylon core wraped in nylon smaller filaments. It plays more like nylon

Monogut ZX is a monofilament PEEK string (weird stuff softer than nylon when strung bellow 55 lb)

Gosh, anything will fell harder than VS. Nat gut is pretty special.

I don’t have a multi to recommend, I never used one that justified the price ( the amount of spin I use shred then far to quickly, but they do feel good) rather than multi I would say vs gut mains and a cheap round cross is a better investment.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SteveI

Legend
English is not my native tongue, but since we use almost the same terms in german for strings, I should be able to understand.

I am trying to understand the world of strings a little bit better.
Following terms I heard and read all the time, but I think some of them are used in alternating terms:

Nylon
Monofilament
Natural Gut
Poly
Co-Poly
Kevlar
Multi/Poly filament

Ok I know what is Natural gut.
Nylon I thought is actually also used for so called monofilament strings, right?
Kevlar I see rarely used.

Now I ordered at 2 different companies testrackets..., one is stringed with a Wilson Revolve 1,25. A website presents this string as a monofil polyester string. (Isa this equatable with a Co-Poly string???)
My other test racquets will be strung with Adrenaline Century 20, where information says monofil Co-Polyester.

These little details makes it very confusing to have an idea which is which.

So is Nylon=monofilament
and Monofil Polyester = Co Polyester?

This pretty much explains it all:

 

Shaolin

G.O.A.T.
Shaolin String guide:

Nylon: Use nylon if you dont care about getting lots of spin and like to break your strings every 15 min.

Multifilament: A little more durable than nylon, better feel than nylon or poly, spin not as good as poly.

Poly: Great if you like spin and hate breaking strings all the time. Plays great a low tensions. Eventually it will die and feel like useless plastic in your racquet.

Gut: Excellent for when you have tons of money to spend and want your stringer to hate you. Very powerful and has great feel. Be prepared to string pretty tight so you don't send the ball into the exosphere.

Kevlar: They make bulletproof vests out of this stuff so you know its strong. Pair it with something soft like multi. Be prepared to be recruited by the Kevlar-Zyex cult who will come to you in short sleeve white collared shirts, a black tie and bicycle helmet, preaching the ways of kevlar strung at 826 lbs and zyex strung at 13 lbs, or the reverse.

Hope this helps.
 
Last edited:

phl92

Hall of Fame
Shaolin String guide:

Nylon: Use nylon if you dont care about getting lots of spin and like to break your strings every 15 min.

Multifilament: A little more durable than nylon, better feel than nylon or poly, spin not as good as poly.

Poly: Great if you like spin and hate breaking strings all the time. Plays great a low tensions. Eventually it will die and feel like useless plastic in your racquet.

Gut: Excellent for when you have tons of money to spend and want your stringer to hate you. Very powerful and has great feel. Be prepared to string pretty tight so you don't send the ball into the exosphere.

Kevlar: They make bulletproof vests out of this stuff so you know its strong. Pair it with something soft like multi. Be prepared to be recruited by the Kevlar-Zyex cult who will come to you in short sleeve white collared shirts, a black tie and bicycle helmet, preaching the ways of kevlar strung at 826 lbs and zyex strung at 13 lbs, or the reverse.

Hope this helps.
made me laugh :D

why natural gut makes the ytringer hate you? actually exactly this was the case. When I said I want to try gut he got a bit upset and had a lot of arguments against ist. Why is that??
 

chrisb

Professional
Natural gut is a pain to string. It tends to unravel if not strung carefully, It also can develop discolored weak spots if it knots up at all the crosses are where it can get hairy sometimes it doesn't slide well across, and lastly occasionally it will snap when stringing costing the stringer a lot of money. Poly syn gut the way to go
 

brownbearfalling

Hall of Fame
I guess it’s kind of confusing when you aren’t familiar with string types and brands associated with each type.

Nylon- generally refers to older technology where the entire string is made of nylon. Generally the cheapest strings you will find. Technically speaking: multifilaments and synthetic guts are made of “nylon” material but they are referred to by their respective names to distinguish them from the “older” technology. Yes this is just marketing.

Monofilament- technically anything that has no individual pieces. Mono= 1, filament= strands. Polyester and co-polyester strings are made in monofilament configuration. Monofilament name is used interchangeably with poly and co poly.

Natural Gut- as you recognize. Made of natural (cow intestine) material. Regarded as the king of all strings due to its tension maintenance and shock absorbing abilities.

Poly- polyester. Sometimes used interchangeably with Co-poly. True polyester refers to the first generations of polyester. These were often clear in color. Very stiff in construction and did not maintain tension as well as newer co-poly. See con-poly.

Co-Poly- the prefix Co- generally refers to “joint” but think combine. Co-poly are polyester strings that have additives to change characteristics. Some times making the string stiffer or softer. You might hear co-polys being referred to polys in short but know there is a difference. Majority of polyester strings on the market are co-polys.

Kevlar- made of Kevlar material. Sometimes 100% Kevlar strands (like ashway) or blended Kevlar with nylon or other materials. Kevlar doesn’t stretch, Feels stiff and is very durable.

Multi filament- generally refers to strings made of softer material such as PU. These are designed with the intension of having lots of power (extra elasticity) and shock absorption.
 

phl92

Hall of Fame
I guess it’s kind of confusing when you aren’t familiar with string types and brands associated with each type.

Nylon- generally refers to older technology where the entire string is made of nylon. Generally the cheapest strings you will find. Technically speaking: multifilaments and synthetic guts are made of “nylon” material but they are referred to by their respective names to distinguish them from the “older” technology. Yes this is just marketing.

Monofilament- technically anything that has no individual pieces. Mono= 1, filament= strands. Polyester and co-polyester strings are made in monofilament configuration. Monofilament name is used interchangeably with poly and co poly.

Natural Gut- as you recognize. Made of natural (cow intestine) material. Regarded as the king of all strings due to its tension maintenance and shock absorbing abilities.

Poly- polyester. Sometimes used interchangeably with Co-poly. True polyester refers to the first generations of polyester. These were often clear in color. Very stiff in construction and did not maintain tension as well as newer co-poly. See con-poly.

Co-Poly- the prefix Co- generally refers to “joint” but think combine. Co-poly are polyester strings that have additives to change characteristics. Some times making the string stiffer or softer. You might hear co-polys being referred to polys in short but know there is a difference. Majority of polyester strings on the market are co-polys.

Kevlar- made of Kevlar material. Sometimes 100% Kevlar strands (like ashway) or blended Kevlar with nylon or other materials. Kevlar doesn’t stretch, Feels stiff and is very durable.

Multi filament- generally refers to strings made of softer material such as PU. These are designed with the intension of having lots of power (extra elasticity) and shock absorption.
Thanks, this is written very easily, even I understood.
I guess, like someone else posted above, I will go for next couple of months with something soft (but not gut) to get used to my new racket and improve my technique.
Can someone recommend a list of best suitable strings (preferable multifilament or nylon?), which still allows some topsin hits.
 

Shaolin

G.O.A.T.
made me laugh :D

why natural gut makes the ytringer hate you? actually exactly this was the case. When I said I want to try gut he got a bit upset and had a lot of arguments against ist. Why is that??

It's a pain to string like @chrisb said. Plus it lasts pretty long so you dont have to resting as much and they make less money off you.
 

fuzz nation

G.O.A.T.
Thanks, this is written very easily, even I understood.
I guess, like someone else posted above, I will go for next couple of months with something soft (but not gut) to get used to my new racket and improve my technique.
Can someone recommend a list of best suitable strings (preferable multifilament or nylon?), which still allows some topsin hits.

One string that's soft and affordable is Forten Sweet. Although this string is a synthetic gut, it's a bit softer than any other syn. gut I've ever used. It's actually soft enough to work as a cheap alternative to some of the expensive multifibers. A set of Forten Sweet costs $4 from TW, while Wilson NXT or Tecnifibre Biphase currently costs $20 per set. Although Forten's Sweet 17 (17 gauge) is soft and comfortable, it isn't very durable. I'd only recommend trying that if you have a racquet with a dense string pattern (18x20). Forten Sweet 16 should last longer and also feel rather soft as long as it isn't installed at high tension.
 

OldschoolKIaus

Hall of Fame
Shaolin String guide:

Kevlar: (...) Be prepared to be recruited by the Kevlar-Zyex cult who will come to you in short sleeve white collared shirts, a black tie and bicycle helmet, preaching the ways of kevlar strung at 826 lbs and zyex strung at 13 lbs, or the reverse.

Exquisite!
 

SteveI

Legend
One string that's soft and affordable is Forten Sweet. Although this string is a synthetic gut, it's a bit softer than any other syn. gut I've ever used. It's actually soft enough to work as a cheap alternative to some of the expensive multifibers. A set of Forten Sweet costs $4 from TW, while Wilson NXT or Tecnifibre Biphase currently costs $20 per set. Although Forten's Sweet 17 (17 gauge) is soft and comfortable, it isn't very durable. I'd only recommend trying that if you have a racquet with a dense string pattern (18x20). Forten Sweet 16 should last longer and also feel rather soft as long as it isn't installed at high tension.

I have to add to this. I have a reel of the white 17G and works pretty much as fuzz as stated. I think it is also a nice 2nd pick for some when it comes to nat gut. If you read the feedback at TW.. you will see the positive comments. Great but at TW in reels. I got my reel for about $40.00 shipped with no tax. That is about $2.35 a set of 40 feet.
 

GeoffHYL

Professional
I have to add to this. I have a reel of the white 17G and works pretty much as fuzz as stated. I think it is also a nice 2nd pick for some when it comes to nat gut. If you read the feedback at TW.. you will see the positive comments. Great but at TW in reels. I got my reel for about $40.00 shipped with no tax. That is about $2.35 a set of 40 feet.
Babolat Spiraltek 17g is my go-to synthetic gut. I have a racquet strung with Forten Sweet 17g, and it is fine, but Spiraltek seems to be a bit better for me, especially in the spin department. It is also as comfortable as Forten Sweet 17g. I'm not a string breaker, so these synthetics last me a long time. Multi's don't last as long, they tend to fray faster. And natural gut in my one experiment with it didn't last that long.
 

GeoffHYL

Professional
Babolat Spiraltek 17g is really a great string... plays much like Head Velocity but for about 1/2 price
Yes, with the string comparison tool, the two are very close. I have one racquet with Velocity, but I haven't played it enough to have a fair opinion of how it plays compared to Spiraltek.
 

phl92

Hall of Fame
Babolat Spiraltek 17g is really a great string... plays much like Head Velocity but for about 1/2 price
How much you would string them if you have them full bad in a Wilson blade v7 18x20? And with which combination in a hybrid poly?
 

GeoffHYL

Professional
String tension is a hard question to answer since it depends on so many factors. I have a couple of 18x20 Tecnifibre TFight DC 315 LTD strung with Spiraltek 17g at 51 lbs. This is fine for me, good combination of power and spin. Also have a Volkl V-Sense 10 325 16x19 strung at 52 lbs. If it were summer and the weather was hot I would probably go up a couple of pounds. Try low 50's and see if that works for you and adjust as needed next time you string. One thing I like about Spiraltek is once the tension settles down after a couple of hours it seems to play very consistently for a long time.

I've never done a synthetic/poly hybrid, just poly/poly and natural gut/synthetic gut, so I don't have any advice for the hybrid. Try out the full bed first and see how it plays. I don't think there is any advantage with a hybrid with Spiraltek, it will likely outlast the poly, at least as far as playability goes.
 
Top