Got a Gamma X-6FC

[Red Baron]

I just bought a Gamma X-6FC for the bargain price of only $120 from Craig's List. After coming to the conclusion that it's not worth it to get a machine with floating clamps and that the economics of stringing only for myself make justifying a more expensive machine inviable, this find was a welcome surprise. It's fully assembled and seems to be operational to this novice's eye. (The next racquet that I string will be my first!) It came with a partial tool set including two awls. (pathfinder? & stringers?) However, the hex wrenches are missing. A stand was included as well.

So. Now I'm wondering what I've got, what else I need to get, and what maintenance I need to perform. Also, any tips for a new stringer would be greatly appreciated.

Some pictures:

 

[lilxjohnyy]

get a lot of rubbing alchohol to clean clamps etc of the machine... u can get the gamma cleaning stone from A T S to clean clamp if you would rather get that. Also you will need awl, pliers, calibrator(if you want to because dropweight is usually perfect), starting clamp(recommended but not necessary) overall it seems like a very good buy

 

[Gamma Tech]

if you want to you should be able to remove the big plate on the top of the stand and then mount the stringer more permanently to the stand. the stand pictured is for the Progression I machines, if you remove the top plate it becomes the Prog II/X-Stringer stand.
bret

 

[Irvin]

Good find and a nice price. I am not sure if you have these tools or not but I would suggest a starting clamp, and a gamma tool set.

http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/descpage-GCLAMP.html
http://www.tennis-warehouse.com/descpage-GSKIT.html

Irvin

 

[Lakers4Life]

Red Barron, That's a smoking deal for $120. Congrats!

 

[Red Baron]

get a lot of rubbing alchohol to clean clamps etc of the machine... u can get the gamma cleaning stone from A T S to clean clamp if you would rather get that. Also you will need awl, pliers, calibrator(if you want to because dropweight is usually perfect), starting clamp(recommended but not necessary) overall it seems like a very good buy

Yes, a thorough cleaning is in order. Rubbing alcohol and an old toothbrush should do the trick.

It came with a pathfinder awl

and a straight awl

. I presume that this is good enough.

What do I need a starting clamp for? I was under the impression that a starting clamp was of greater importance for a floating clamp machine and not really necessary with fixed clamps? In other words, how does it help?

 

[Lakers4Life]

Did the base stand come with the X-6FC?

 

[Red Baron]

if you want to you should be able to remove the big plate on the top of the stand and then mount the stringer more permanently to the stand. the stand pictured is for the Progression I machines, if you remove the top plate it becomes the Prog II/X-Stringer stand.
bret

You're right. It seems to be the Progression stand as far as I can tell. Thanks for the tip about taking the top plate off. The previous owner drilled some holes to mount the X-6FC to the stand. I'll give this a try tonight. Thanks for the tip.

One of the rubber feet on the stand is missing as well as all the feet for the X-6FC itself. Can I go to a hardware store to get replacements, or do I have to get them from Gamma directly?

 

[Irvin]

...What do I need a starting clamp for? I was under the impression that a starting clamp was of greater importance for a floating clamp machine and not really necessary with fixed clamps? In other words, how does it help?

I use mine every time I string to tie off the knots. I also use it occasionally to do ATW stringing and as a bridge if I ever have a short string. When I string with a soft multi and I am going to block a hole I like to try to run my string in the hole before I pull tension and sometime that leaves me a short loop of string on the outside of the frame. I then clamp the loop with the starting clamp to tension it without pulling the loop of string out of the racket.

Irvin

 

[Red Baron]

Red Barron, That's a smoking deal for $120. Congrats!

Thanks. The previous owner didn't know which specific model it was and simply seemed content to get some cash for something sitting in the garage.

Did the base stand come with the X-6FC?

Yes, it came with the stand.

This stand

After I take the top plate off, the stand should look like this

 

[Red Baron]

I use mine every time I string to tie off the knots. I also use it occasionally to do ATW stringing and as a bridge if I ever have a short string. When I string with a soft multi and I am going to block a hole I like to try to run my string in the hole before I pull tension and sometime that leaves me a short loop of string on the outside of the frame. I then clamp the loop with the starting clamp to tension it without pulling the loop of string out of the racket.

Irvin

OK. Now I get it. A starting clamp should make life much easier then. I'm happy to invest in one to help me tie better knots.

Thanks for the tool suggestions. I will definitely get a starting clamp. I have basic needle nose pliers and cutters which I plan to take for a stringing test drive before upgrading. The sticky tools thread has some nice suggestions also.

 

[Lakers4Life]

I got this from Maxline's online site, for $16 and works well.

Thanks. The previous owner didn't know which specific model it was and simply seemed content to get some cash for something sitting in the garage.

I always looking for stringer parts for my Project. Some people just don't know what they have sitting in a garage or storage, and will let it go for a song. Others want way too much for what they think they have.

 

[Irvin]

...I have basic needle nose pliers and cutters which I plan to take for a stringing test drive before upgrading...

The cutters should be able to cut a sharp angle on the string. If they don't do that with one cut get some good ones that do.

Irvin

 

[Red Baron]

Missing 3 of 4 Support Locking Knobs

I read through the manual and, under the "Securing the Frame" step of "MOUNTING THE FRAME," (page 6) it says that I should lock the shoulder support knobs. The problem is that I only have 1 of the 4 fastening screws, or "SUPPORT LOCK KNOB"s (part 144), as Gamma refers to them. As far as I can tell, the support mounts are there to prevent frame expansion. It seems unlikely that the L-shaped support mounts would twist and thus obviate the need for the locking screws.

In other words, not being able to lock the support arms is not a big deal. Correct?

Here are some pictures to clarify what I'm talking about:

On the underside of the front left support arm, a support locking knob is visible. (the large round hand twist nut, not the hex bolt) Note its absence on the right side.

In this picture, all four arms are visible. Only the right rear arm has the knob.

 

[Red Baron]

I've ordered a starting clamp and some inexpensive practice string that's playable (OG Sheep Micro 16).

The cutters should be able to cut a sharp angle on the string. If they don't do that with one cut get some good ones that do.

Irvin

Alas you advice will put a dent in my wallet, while saving me a lot of frustration. My cutters were not sharp enough to cut through a scrap piece of string in a single cut, let alone at a sharp angle. Interestingly though, a large pair of nail clippers cut the string like a hot knife through butter, at an angle sharp enough to cut skin. Eventually, a pair of Xuron cutters will find a spot in my tool set.

 

[zidane339]

I read through the manual and, under the "Securing the Frame" step of "MOUNTING THE FRAME," (page 6) it says that I should lock the shoulder support knobs. The problem is that I only have 1 of the 4 fastening screws, or "SUPPORT LOCK KNOB"s (part 144), as Gamma refers to them. As far as I can tell, the support mounts are there to prevent frame expansion. It seems unlikely that the L-shaped support mounts would twist and thus obviate the need for the locking screws.

In other words, not being able to lock the support arms is not a big deal. Correct?

Here are some pictures to clarify what I'm talking about:

On the underside of the front left support arm, a support locking knob is visible. (the large round hand twist nut, not the hex bolt) Note its absence on the right side.

In this picture, all four arms are visible. Only the right rear arm has the knob.

I'm not sure if it will be a huge deal or not, but def speak to Gamma Tech and try to order some. They will help keep your racquet from distorting.

 

[Lakers4Life]

Alas you advice will put a dent in my wallet, while saving me a lot of frustration. My cutters were not sharp enough to cut through a scrap piece of string in a single cut, let alone at a sharp angle. Interestingly though, a large pair of nail clippers cut the string like a hot knife through butter, at an angle sharp enough to cut skin. Eventually, a pair of Xuron cutters will find a spot in my tool set.

I picked these up at Fry's Electronics for $5.

I read through the manual and, under the "Securing the Frame" step of "MOUNTING THE FRAME," (page 6) it says that I should lock the shoulder support knobs. The problem is that I only have 1 of the 4 fastening screws, or "SUPPORT LOCK KNOB"s (part 144), as Gamma refers to them. As far as I can tell, the support mounts are there to prevent frame expansion. It seems unlikely that the L-shaped support mounts would twist and thus obviate the need for the locking screws.

In other words, not being able to lock the support arms is not a big deal. Correct?

Here are some pictures to clarify what I'm talking about:

On the underside of the front left support arm, a support locking knob is visible. (the large round hand twist nut, not the hex bolt) Note its absence on the right side.

Yeah, you are missing the Support Lock Knobs. You could use a metric Socket Cap bolt with a washer. While you are waiting for your order from Gamma. Just make sure you match the threads correctly.

 

[Bud]

I'm not sure if it will be a huge deal or not, but def speak to Gamma Tech and try to order some. They will help keep your racquet from distorting.

I'm also curious to hear from Gamma Tech on this issue.

Are the two point mounts sufficient to string the racquet safely on this machine? Are the load spreaders at 6/12 adequate to prevent frame damage, by themselves (minus the 4 additional arms). I'm assuming they are since the arms prevent the racquet from expanding outward.

So, to distill it down further... can the arms on this machine be removed completely if one wanted to use it as a 2-point machine only?

 

[Lakers4Life]

I'm also curious to hear from Gamma Tech on this issue.

Are the two point mounts sufficient to string the racquet safely on this machine? Are the load spreaders at 6/12 adequate to prevent frame damage, by themselves (minus the 4 additional arms). I'm assuming they are since the arms prevent the racquet from expanding outward.

So, to distill it down further... can the arms on this machine be removed completely if one wanted to use it as a 2-point machine only?

I have the same mounts on my 5003, it's not a true 2 point mount like on an Eagnas Beta. The side supports are what actually hold the racket. The 12/6 o'clock mounts are there to keep it centered while the side supports are engaged. They do not "hold-down" like the older style 6-point mounts.

 

[Bud]

I have the same mounts on my 5003, it's not a true 2 point mount like on an Eagnas Beta. The side supports are what actually hold the racket. The 12/6 o'clock mounts are there to keep it centered while the side supports are engaged. They do not "hold-down" like the older style 6-point mounts.

Thanks for the info!

 

[Red Baron]

I went back and reread what the X-6FC manual has to say regarding mounting the frame:

The supports should be tightened to the point where the racquet frame will not move in the mounting system when the handle is grasped and attempts are made to move it. Should any supports lose contact with the frame while stringing, they should be re-tightened.

Even with the lock knobs missing, I was able to mount a frame so that it would not move when grasped from the handle and shaken. It seems that the lock knobs prevent twisting of the frame shoulder support arms and that they cannot move forward/backward.

I have the same mounts on my 5003, it's not a true 2 point mount like on an Eagnas Beta. The side supports are what actually hold the racket. The 12/6 o'clock mounts are there to keep it centered while the side supports are engaged. They do not "hold-down" like the older style 6-point mounts.

Since the mounting system is the same on your 5003, I'm curious to know if you can mount a racquet securely without tightening the support lock knobs and what your impressions of this are.

 

[Lakers4Life]

I went back and reread what the X-6FC manual has to say regarding mounting the frame:

Even with the lock knobs missing, I was able to mount a frame so that it would not move when grasped from the handle and shaken. It seems that the lock knobs prevent twisting of the frame shoulder support arms and that they cannot move forward/backward.

Since the mounting system is the same on your 5003, I'm curious to know if you can mount a racquet securely without tightening the support lock knobs and what your impressions of this are.

I sometimes forget to tighten the locks knobs, but even then the screws help in stability. Like I mentioned before you can probably use a socket cap screw/bolt in place of the lock knobs. Did you call Gamma to ask how much the lock knobs are?

On my Eagnas Flex 940, the side supports are not screwed in. The K-Support mounts has two peg screws/studs. The peg closest to the frame was a pivot and the rear was able to move side to side. Some have changed the studs to bolts so it can be tighten.

 

[Gamma Tech]

The shoulder support lock knobs aren't necessary but do secure the shoulder support from moving or flopping around. we have them in stock & they are $5 ea.

we made the 2pt SC mounting system because customers were removing the shoulder supports and making there own 2pt mounting systems. There have been many of rqts strung w/o them but GAMMA HIGHLY RECOMMENDS AGAINST THIS PRATICE. the problem is that there is too much stress @ 12 & 6 o'clock because the pads are very thin. on our 2pt mounting system there are actually 4 points of support that are ~2" on each side of center to distribute the force.

bret

 

[Red Baron]

The shoulder support lock knobs aren't necessary but do secure the shoulder support from moving or flopping around. we have them in stock & they are $5 ea.

we made the 2pt SC mounting system because customers were removing the shoulder supports and making there own 2pt mounting systems. There have been many of rqts strung w/o them but GAMMA HIGHLY RECOMMENDS AGAINST THIS PRATICE. the problem is that there is too much stress @ 12 & 6 o'clock because the pads are very thin. on our 2pt mounting system there are actually 4 points of support that are ~2" on each side of center to distribute the force.

bret

Thanks for the clarification. It's safe to try stringing a racquet then.

I sent you an email earlier today Bret.

 

[Lakers4Life]

For $21 you got yourself some lock knobs. I had to wait almost a week for my support pads. I wish Gamma had a USPS Priority Mail service, instead of UPS Ground.

Socket bolts would probably cost $5 at the most, from a good supplier. Luckily I have one near me.

 

[Lakers4Life]

Here is a picture of the M6x20mm bolt I was talking about:

61 cents each at my bolt supplier.

 

[Red Baron]

Here is a picture of the M6x20mm bolt I was talking about:

61 cents each at my bolt supplier.

Thanks. It's good to know the size. I may go get some to hold me over until my replacement parts from gamma arrive.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I still haven't tried to string a racquet yet. My starting clamp has yet to arrive, but I suspect that I'll be too anxious to wait for it to try out the new toy. Besides, I have two Prince TT Warriors with broken strings taunting me.

 

[Lakers4Life]

You don't need a Starting clamp, unless you plan on doing a 2 piece job. It does come in handy, but I did not buy one until about a few months ago.

 

[Red Baron]

Success!

I strung my first, second, and third racquets today. I got my time down from 2 1/2 hours to a little over an hour by the third. The first two racquets were Prince TT Warriors. The third was a Head LM Radical MP. Weaving crosses is not the most pleasant experience, especially on an 18x20 frame. On the first frame, I was constantly checking Yulittle's youtube guides. By the third, I didn't need them. A starting clamp makes life easier, both for starting crosses and tying knots. A nail clipper does a great job of cutting strings in a pinch.

Stinging three racquets in a row really makes me appreciate why the expensive machines are worth the money. Cone lock clamps get tiresome after a while. An automatic tensioner would be nice too. Perhaps there's a Wise in my future...

Yet, there are still lots of little details that are quite important, yet often learned the hard way. For instance, on the LM Radical, I finished, or thought I had. However, since I tied the mains off at 7L/7R instead of 8L/8R, there was no place to finish the crosses. (The crosses are supposed to finish at 7L/7R.) If I had not trimmed the mains knot, I might have been able to awkwardly recover. My reward is to cut the strings out and try again. Sigh. I know that I need to the practice. Future mistakes will no doubt provide further learning opportunities.

Overall, I'm happy with my acquisition. Yet, after the third racquet, it feels more like work than the new toy I expected. At least I'm $45 closer to recouping my modest investment.

 

[Bud]

I strung my first, second, and third racquets today. I got my time down from 2 1/2 hours to a little over an hour by the third. The first two racquets were Prince TT Warriors. The third was a Head LM Radical MP. Weaving crosses is not the most pleasant experience, especially on an 18x20 frame. On the first frame, I was constantly checking Yulittle's youtube guides. By the third, I didn't need them. A starting clamp makes life easier, both for starting crosses and tying knots. A nail clipper does a great job of cutting strings in a pinch.

Stinging three racquets in a row really makes me appreciate why the expensive machines are worth the money. Cone lock clamps get tiresome after a while. An automatic tensioner would be nice too. Perhaps there's a Wise in my future...

Yet, there are still lots of little details that are quite important, yet often learned the hard way. For instance, on the LM Radical, I finished, or thought I had. However, since I tied the mains off at 7L/7R instead of 8L/8R, there was no place to finish the crosses. (The crosses are supposed to finish at 7L/7R.) If I had not trimmed the mains knot, I might have been able to awkwardly recover. My reward is to cut the strings out and try again. Sigh. I know that I need to the practice. Future mistakes will no doubt provide further learning opportunities.

Overall, I'm happy with my acquisition. Yet, after the third racquet, it feels more like work than the new toy I expected. At least I'm $45 closer to recouping my modest investment.

You don't HAVE to use the recommended tie-off locations... simply use a different grommet hole next time. There is always at least one more that will work fine. All part of the learning process.

 

[Red Baron]

You don't HAVE to use the recommended tie-off locations... simply use a different grommet hole next time. There is always at least one more that will work fine. All part of the learning process.

Hmm. Good to know. However, the intended tie points have wider grommets to comfortably allow two strings through. I did not want to try to force a fit where there wasn't one. Is there a trick/technique to accommodate two strings in a smaller diameter grommet?

 

[Bud]

Hmm. Good to know. However, the intended tie points have wider grommets to comfortably allow two strings through. I did not want to try to force a fit where there wasn't one. Is there a trick/technique to accommodate two strings in a smaller diameter grommet?

Use an awl... carefully :twisted:

First, however... try poking around in a few grommet holes... also, use your eyes and look into the holes to see how much space is available... usually there are a few that will accept another string quite easily.

 

[COPEY]

I picked up a tip on here (can't recall from who) about using chapstick. I tried it - seems to work. Not to say that it'll work in every case, but it might prevent you from using an awl on occasion.

 

[Red Baron]

Got my replacement parts from Gamma

I received my replacement parts from Gamma in a huge box for a few small bolts. Well packed is quite an understatement in this case. After installing the replacement parts and tightening the bolts on one of the bases for a swivel clamp, I moved the X6FC from the larger Progression I stand base to the smaller Progression II/X stand, resulting in a much cleaner setup. It could really use some extra storage space though. Perhaps some hanging bags/pouches would be best.

Some pictures after a light cleaning...

 

[Lakers4Life]

Looks Great! For some reason I like real Holders, like on my last Flex 940.

I saw a nice rolling cart at Sam's Club for $59.

 

[Red Baron]

Strung poly for the first time

My first attempt at stringing poly didn't go well, with the string breaking on the racquet. Unlike previous practice stringing, this time I strung one of my main racquets, a Microgel Prestige Pro. Stringing poly is noticably different from synthetic gut, not in a good way. Perseverance won out, with the second attempt with poly string successful.

The extra stiffness and coil memory of the poly string (TopSpin Concept Pure 1.24 & MSV Focus Hex 1.18 ) was immediately obvious, especially while pulling tension and later weaving crosses. I had to feed string to the rotational tensioner with extra slack. If I did not, it would not have been possible to set the tension by leveling the dropweight. Extra care had to be taken to avoid kinking the string also. I must have nicked the Concept Pure at some point while I was doing the mains because it snapped. :???: Not giving up, I started over with the broken string and improved my technique before opening up a new pack of string to start over. Weaving crosses with poly was not particularly pleasant either, especially near the final tie off.

I'll be searching through old threads for stringing tips. As I've discovered again, there's still a lot to learn!

The end result with MSV Focus Hex 1.18 @ 54 lbs: