New self stringer - 2 questions

[govideo88]

Hi

I'm new to stringing myself but not new to various strings and setups. I picked up a Gamma X2 and I must admit I works great! For ALU or something similar I go from the ground up, other wise use it as intended. This brings me to my first question:

1. A lot of tension obviously gets lost every clamp off and then especially at the end. I know some people will do the last string on the mains a few lbs more than the rest. Would it actually make sense to gradually increase the reference tension as you move away from the middle? Say start at 54 and end at 57 - would this create a more consistent bed or are the racquets actually engineered to work best with a diminishing pattern of tension?

2. I taught myself how to string on an old Prince o3 white. Not an easy choice but it was what I had. I use Pro Staff in play and just started to string those up myself. On 2 attempts, the last main on either side really pulls hard on the grommet and actually starts to pull the whole grommet assembly away from the beam. Is this normal??? It looks bad so I've just been pushing it down while I have tension pulling. Once tension is pulled off outside the racquet, everything is good. This is on a v13 Pro Staff. I'll try to post a picture next time I'm stringing or if this is normal, please ease my concerns!

Thanks in advance for any and all the help.

 

[Phantasm]

For your first question, you're thinking of proportional stringing. Discussion about it here

https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/proportional-stringing.589172/

 

[govideo88]

For your first question, you're thinking of proportional stringing. Discussion about it here

https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/proportional-stringing.589172/

Ah, nice - so it's not an original idea. Now time to read. Thank you.

Anyone with experience with the new Pro Staff or in general? It's a bit concerning as though I'm doing something wrong but the job comes out right and I hit with it today wonderfully.

 

[Folsom_Stringer_Musa]

For your first question, you're thinking of proportional stringing. Discussion about it here

https://tt.tennis-warehouse.com/index.php?threads/proportional-stringing.589172/

What he is doing is proportional but he is doing it the opposite way.
Center mains has longest length and the 8th/9th main is the shortest.
Applying more tension as you go from center to last main will reduce the size of the sweet spot.
Hope it helps.
Musa

 

[shadow01]

the last main on either side really pulls hard on the grommet and actually starts to pull the whole grommet assembly away from the beam. Is this normal??? It looks bad so I've just been pushing it down while I have tension pulling. Once tension is pulled off outside the racquet, everything is good.

I think what you are describing is what happens to me when stringing certain racquets with new grommets. Which is normal I believe. It takes a few string jobs for me for that to stop happening. I try to hold it in and make sure the grommet stays in the racquet - especially on the last pull when everything resolves itself. I mainly string for F&F so let’s see others with more experience have to say.

 

[Wes]

I'm new to stringing...
On 2 attempts, the last main on either side really pulls hard on the grommet and actually starts to pull the whole grommet assembly away from the beam. Is this normal??? It looks bad so I've just been pushing it down while I have tension pulling. Once tension is pulled off outside the racquet, everything is good.

I think what you are describing is what happens to me when stringing certain racquets with new grommets. Which is normal I believe. It takes a few string jobs for me for that to stop happening. I try to hold it in and make sure the grommet stays in the racquet - especially on the last pull when everything resolves itself. I mainly string for F&F so let’s see others with more experience have to say.

It's not super common, but does occur on certain frames, especially when they are brand new (although certain frames can continue to have this phenomena on an ongoing basis).
When it does happen, it tends to be (a) at the very first grommet that is not inside the yoke/bridge, or (b) at the last main(s) string(s) - like you are experiencing.

I mention this from 4:00-5:30 & 11:15-12:00 here...

 

[govideo88]

It's not super common, but does occur on certain frames, especially when they are brand new (although certain frames can continue to have this phenomena on an ongoing basis).
When it does happen, it tends to be (a) at the very first grommet that is not inside the yoke/bridge, or (b) at the last main(s) string(s) - like you are experiencing.

I mention this from 4:00-5:30 & 11:15-12:00 here...

Fantastic. That's what I was thinking that with the new grommets they just weren't bent into shape. As mentioned have just been pushing them in with my thumb until I clamp and it seems to be no issue. Thanks

 

[govideo88]

I think what you are describing is what happens to me when stringing certain racquets with new grommets. Which is normal I believe. It takes a few string jobs for me for that to stop happening. I try to hold it in and make sure the grommet stays in the racquet - especially on the last pull when everything resolves itself. I mainly string for F&F so let’s see others with more experience have to say.

Cool thanks - that's what I'm doing; holding it with my thumb until I clamp it. Hopefully it'll wear in and be a non issue but it's not really a big deal anyway. Thanks again for the reply

 

[govideo88]

What he is doing is proportional but he is doing it the opposite way.
Center mains has longest length and the 8th/9th main is the shortest.
Applying more tension as you go from center to last main will reduce the size of the sweet spot.
Hope it helps.
Musa

Thanks - I'm not currently doing this. I was just thinking about the concept of it given the tension loss per string.

 

[First Serve]

It's not super common, but does occur on certain frames, especially when they are brand new (although certain frames can continue to have this phenomena on an ongoing basis).
When it does happen, it tends to be (a) at the very first grommet that is not inside the yoke/bridge, or (b) at the last main(s) string(s) - like you are experiencing.

I mention this from 4:00-5:30 & 11:15-12:00 here..

What is the rationale for pulling the 1st cross at the end?
Thanks for the ribbon suggestion.

 

[Folsom_Stringer_Musa]

Thanks - I'm not currently doing this. I was just thinking about the concept of it given the tension loss per string.

The main idea is to have tension spread (both in mains and cross) such a way that you have uniform tension throughout the string bed, thus resulting in (as much as) 70% bigger sweet spot.
This is claimed though. But the difference is clearly evident once you hit with the frame.

 

[Wes]

What is the rationale for pulling the 1st cross at the end?

To remove the starting clamp from the top cross.

When using a starting clamp (rather than a starting knot) this is standard operating procedure.
If you attempted to remove the starting clamp, without tensioning the top cross, you would immediately lose tension.

I thought this was fairly evident, and I thought that I explained it from 45:30-47:15, but perhaps I wasn't as clear as I thought.

 

[First Serve]

To remove the starting clamp from the top cross.

When using a starting clamp (rather than a starting knot) this is standard operating procedure.
If you attempted to remove the starting clamp, without tensioning the top cross, you would immediately lose tension.

I thought this was fairly evident, and I thought that I explained it from 45:30-47:15, but perhaps I wasn't as clear as I thought.

sorry Wes, what i meant was why not use a starting knot and pull tension right away on the ifrst cross after pre-weaving the crosses as you did.

I always pre-weave 5 crosses (after the mains) and pull the first cross after a starting knot.

Btw, i like your use of a Parnell Knot instead of a starting knot which takes me some time.

 

[esm]

For me, I prefer the starting knot. I think it looks good.
suppose you’d use a Parnell knot or other finishing knot if you need to remove the starting clamp and to pull the tension.

 

[shadow01]

For me, I don’t use a starting knot because a) I have a starting clamp and b) I only am proficient at Parnell knot and pro knot and they seem to work for me in any situation- lol. I did try a starting knot once, and it went fine. But the only advantage for me was saving a bit of string - which wasn’t too significant for my amount of stringing. Maybe one day I’ll try other knots - but for now and the time I have to string, works for me

 

[am1899]

Food for thought:

IME, once in a blue moon, using a starting clamp to hold the top cross on natural gut crosses would cause a premature break on that area of string. So I use a starting knot in the case of natural gut crosses. For me this prevents potentially marring that section of string on the outside of the frame (where a starting clamp would otherwise come into contact with it). True, using a starting knot could introduce other problems. But it seems to be working well for me, knock on wood.

For me, this isn’t an issue with synthetic strings. So generally on a 2pc job, I use the starting clamp to hold the top cross. Then at some point (usually after finishing the bottom cross), I pull tension on the top cross, remove the starting clamp, set the machine clamp, and tie off with a Parnell knot.

YMMV.

 

[shadow01]

Food for thought:

IME, once in a blue moon, using a starting clamp to hold the top cross on natural gut crosses would cause a premature break on that area of string. So I use a starting knot in the case of natural gut crosses. For me this prevents potentially marring that section of string on the outside of the frame (where a starting clamp would otherwise come into contact with it). True, using a starting knot could introduce other problems. But it seems to be working well for me, knock on wood.

For me, this isn’t an issue with synthetic strings. So generally on a 2pc job, I use the starting clamp to hold the top cross. Then at some point (usually after finishing the bottom cross), I pull tension on the top cross, remove the starting clamp, set the machine clamp, and tie off with a Parnell knot.

YMMV.

That happened to me with a soft string. I now use a 1.5” wooden spacer between frame and clamp so the string on the frame after knot is tied off isn’t damaged. I do forget sometimes to grab the spacer and then just hope for no break. So far so good.

 

[Folsom_Stringer_Musa]

Food for thought:

IME, once in a blue moon, using a starting clamp to hold the top cross on natural gut crosses would cause a premature break on that area of string. So I use a starting knot in the case of natural gut crosses. For me this prevents potentially marring that section of string on the outside of the frame (where a starting clamp would otherwise come into contact with it). True, using a starting knot could introduce other problems. But it seems to be working well for me, knock on wood.

For me, this isn’t an issue with synthetic strings. So generally on a 2pc job, I use the starting clamp to hold the top cross. Then at some point (usually after finishing the bottom cross), I pull tension on the top cross, remove the starting clamp, set the machine clamp, and tie off with a Parnell knot.

YMMV.

By "Natural Gut Cross" You meant gut itself is in cross (I think this way) or cross in a string that has gut main?
I see your logic on when the gut itself is the cross string.
If main is stiffer string then starting knot would help softer string from early break.

 

[am1899]

By "Natural Gut Cross" You meant gut itself is in cross (I think this way) or cross in a string that has gut main?
I see your logic on when the gut itself is the cross string.
If main is stiffer string then starting knot would help softer string from early break.

Yes, what I meant was that when the customer requests natural gut crosses, i use a starting knot to start the crosses.

 

[govideo88]

The main idea is to have tension spread (both in mains and cross) such a way that you have uniform tension throughout the string bed, thus resulting in (as much as) 70% bigger sweet spot.
This is claimed though. But the difference is clearly evident once you hit with the frame.

Are you saying evident that it helps or no ...? If yes, how do you recommend stringing? As I mention which would be starting with my preferred reference in the middle mains and going up gradually as I go outwards?

 

[Folsom_Stringer_Musa]

Since you are starting self stringing, why not start normal rather than proportional stringing?
You can find if that works for you or not.

You can get more details on proportional stringing here:
/*************/ .com/info/proportional-stringing-can-you-benefit (tt is not letting me share this url )

Also you can buy stringing sheets from here:
https://sergetti.com/en/
https://sergetti.com/en/the-different-stringing-methods-what-are-they-and-what-are-the-benefits/

You can see some video Irvin posted:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sergetti+stringing+method

At very basic level, you start with reference tension for center 2 mains and then reduce tension proportionately based on the length of the main/cross you are stringing.
It is time consuming but benefit is there as I myself use this method(modified for my need) for my own rackets.

Hope this helps.
Musa

 

[govideo88]

Since you are starting self stringing, why not start normal rather than proportional stringing?
You can find if that works for you or not.

You can get more details on proportional stringing here:
/*************/ .com/info/proportional-stringing-can-you-benefit (tt is not letting me share this url )

Also you can buy stringing sheets from here:
https://sergetti.com/en/
https://sergetti.com/en/the-different-stringing-methods-what-are-they-and-what-are-the-benefits/

You can see some video Irvin posted:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sergetti+stringing+method

At very basic level, you start with reference tension for center 2 mains and then reduce tension proportionately based on the length of the main/cross you are stringing.
It is time consuming but benefit is there as I myself use this method(modified for my need) for my own rackets.

Hope this helps.
Musa

Ok, thanks Musa