Where da you guys put ur lead?
- Thread starter degrease
- Start date
Right now I have 2 inch strips on both sides of the frame at 3 and 9, 8 total inches. I had used twice that much on these frames (Pacific Feel 95), but struggled with my serve and toned it down. In the past I have added ALOT of weight to light frames to get them to 12 ounces, and did also have some at 12. Experimenting with different options is a good idea. I used to go through a workout with one set-up, maybe add a little more for the next workout, then take some off if things were worse, and find what works for me.
PrinceMoron
Legend
Before you even out the weight, try more on upper edge. Imbalance might get the frame through more quickly. You can always even it up if you don't like it.
fuzz nation
G.O.A.T.
I also like the 3/9 o'clock option. It seems to make my racquet steadier through the ball if its stock layout leaves it feeling too unstable for me. I go to the net a lot and also don't swing with extremely high racquet speeds, so I'm used to having "enough" mass in the racquet to command the ball. Adding lead at 12 o'clock doesn't seem to be as effective a stabilizer - at least that's how it feels for me.
While 1/4" lead tape works great on the hoop when I do some tuning, I use 1/2" lead tape under my grip when adding weight to that end of the racquet to get the degree of HL balance that's most familiar for me (usually around 10 pts. HL in a 12.6-12.8 oz. frame).
While 1/4" lead tape works great on the hoop when I do some tuning, I use 1/2" lead tape under my grip when adding weight to that end of the racquet to get the degree of HL balance that's most familiar for me (usually around 10 pts. HL in a 12.6-12.8 oz. frame).
Phantasm
Semi-Pro
3/9 for me as well in 1/4" strips. Sometimes long enough to stretch to 2/10 and 4/8 around the hoop.
I use 2 inches of at 3/9 of 1/4" strips on my APDC for a bit more stability. I feel like the 2013 version made it stable enough that you don't need lead compared to the earlier version.
will add some under the grip or buttcap to offset weight too.
I use 2 inches of at 3/9 of 1/4" strips on my APDC for a bit more stability. I feel like the 2013 version made it stable enough that you don't need lead compared to the earlier version.
will add some under the grip or buttcap to offset weight too.
Serjojeee
Rookie
Some of my raquets have it at 12, some at 9/3. It depends on what is needed, spin - 12, power and stability - 3/9. I finished with the PS 18x20 with lead at 12. Some weird vibrations with 3/9 lead placement with that frame and not enough spin for me. I'll try again the 3/9 setup with the new PS 18x20, when it'll be available though.
How long are your lead strips on your hoop? I'm planning on adding 6-8g total at 3 & 9, and I tried in strips of 8" and strips of 4" (1/4). 8" strips feel much better, but it just extends almost throughout the whole racquet so I don't think I'm getting much benefit. 4" strips feel like there're 2 many "hotspots" on the stringbed and swing quite weird.
J
joohan
Guest
3/9 almost exclusively, the only exception being Dunlop Bio300Tour which has 9g at 3/9 as well as continuous strip from 10-2 because of the dead-ish upper hoop. The only racquet I've tried so far that does not need any lead whatsoever is Fischer Vacuum Pro Mid.
My racquets have 5 layers of 3/4" lead under the bumper (4 layers nearly the entire length of the bumper and a shorter 5th layer) as well as just under 6" long strips of 3/4" lead at 3 and 9.
The rest of the lead is under the grip; in 5 3/4" wide "rings" which cover the bottom 10 cm of the handle and 1 "ring" around the very top of the handle (centred at approximately 18 cm).
The racquets' specs (strung with an overgrip) end up at 387 grams 32.5 cm balance and 400 kg*cm^2 swing weight, which incidentally I copied off one of Taylor Dent's racquets that Greg Raven measured in 2004.
Anyway, the point I'm making is that lead tape isn't only meant to be placed in one location and there's no need to restrict yourself in that way.
The rest of the lead is under the grip; in 5 3/4" wide "rings" which cover the bottom 10 cm of the handle and 1 "ring" around the very top of the handle (centred at approximately 18 cm).
The racquets' specs (strung with an overgrip) end up at 387 grams 32.5 cm balance and 400 kg*cm^2 swing weight, which incidentally I copied off one of Taylor Dent's racquets that Greg Raven measured in 2004.
Anyway, the point I'm making is that lead tape isn't only meant to be placed in one location and there's no need to restrict yourself in that way.
I voted hi noon. Lead at the tip seems to have the most impact on power without getting heavy. I know 9 and 3 is supposed to be better for plow and stability but my experience is the racket also feels more stable if you add weight at noon. My frames have a stock twist weight around 14 so I don't see a lot of advantage in adding lead on the sides - 3 and 9 o'c. But, if I bought a frame with a lower twist weight, I would try adding some at noon and a little at 3/9 to improve twist weight/stability.
I agree with this. I looked at where I see to hit 99% of my shots, including serves, and seems like a 6 inch area, starting about the 24 inch mark down to around 18, so that's how much I put the lead. When the lead doesn't extend to an area that I hit in, it feels. Noticeably different (e.g. if lead is only 2 inches at 3/9, and hit a shot a little higher in hoop, feels much less powerful and also more vibrations).
You're still getting the benefit btw...slightly less twistweight than if all at 3/8, but it's minimal. The curve of the racket even with 8 inch strips still has the lead very lateral. If you really want to keep twistweight up and keep the long strips, you can put the lead on the outside of the frame instead of inside the hoop
Serjojeee
Rookie
3/9 position imho is not just geometrical thing - try moving it up or down a bit, all frames are different. There is a spot where the lead feels wright, less vibrations more stability, but in my personal opinion I like it when it's not absolutely vibration free super stable and a bit dead feeling. With just a little bit of vibration on contact I feel the ball better - that was my setup on pure drive, customised with the babolat leather grip (super nice thing) and 4 gms of lead a bit higher than 3/9.
TennisHound
Legend
It depends on the racquet. When I demoed the Head XTPMP, I loaded up the lead at 12 just to get some plow though. On my Pure Aero I have it at 3&9 since its already head heavy. On the Wilson Pro Open, Ultra 100, and Surge I had the best results at 10 and 2.
Last edited:
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
Sounds like you're adding mass for the sake of adding weight.if you don't know where you are or where you want to end up, and you want to take a trip to find somewhere you like any direction will do.
You bought your APD because you like it better than any other racket (I hope) now you want to change it. I add mass to match frames or bring a frame up to the specs I want.
Last edited:
Irvin
Talk Tennis Guru
What others like and play with may not be right for you. If you're going to make small adjustments and you don't have a second APD to compare it to you become accustomed to the racket and don't really see a difference.
dr325i
G.O.A.T.
Did not read the replies. Possibly already answered.
It depends on the racket. Lead not only adds the weight and increases the SW, but also alters the racket characteristics -- moves/reshapes the sweet spot and changes the stability in the hoop (twist weight).
For example, for the PT57A, I always put the lead at 3 and 9 to increase the stability and add power without "extreme" swing weight increase.
For my PT113B, I have no lead at 3 and 9 as it is a very stable as-is and I do not need any SW increase.
movdqa
Talk Tennis Guru
I have 15 grams from 10:00 and 2:00 on an IG Prestige MP. The reason I can do this is because the IG Prestige MP is already quite stable and has a high-enough twistweight to provide sufficient stability. The weight at 12:00 gives me the maximum swingweight at the lowest static weight. Static weight is a problem only on the serve where I've run into Golfers Elbow with very heavy racquets.
Tennis Player
New User
I have a Wilson 97 Ultra. What is the easiest way to increase the mass of the racket without changing the balance? I have tried by putting some lead on the inside of the throat at the bottom of the V. Would it be better to have put the lead on the outside of the throat near the handle? Does it make a difference if it is on the inside or on the outside?
A
Attila_the_gorilla
Guest
Head Liquidmetal Radical. About 16grams from 10 to 2, but with multiple short strips at 1 and 11, my favourite lead location on this racket.
Some of my other rackets needed ****loads at 3 and 9. Babolat PureStorm Ltd GT, I'm looking at You!!!
Some of my other rackets needed ****loads at 3 and 9. Babolat PureStorm Ltd GT, I'm looking at You!!!
Add lead where it's needed. Adding at 3/9 or at 12 in arbitrary amounts is akin to throwing ingredients into a bowl and hoping it tastes good.
At the very least help yourself with a scale, balance board and a clear(er) idea what your desired end specs are. Then visit the TW University for the racquet customization tool. I've ended up adding lead all over from the butt, to the throat to the tip and in varying amounts.
At the very least help yourself with a scale, balance board and a clear(er) idea what your desired end specs are. Then visit the TW University for the racquet customization tool. I've ended up adding lead all over from the butt, to the throat to the tip and in varying amounts.
Tennis Player
New User
That customization tool is hard to figure. I guess I need to convert eights of an inch to tenths of an inch, convert grams to ounces, figure out if the points HL is strung or unstrung. I am apparently not very bright.
I wouldn't take such a pessimistic approach. I would consider those things to be the fundamentals. If you don't have good basis for understanding your equipment then you're just making random guesses. A little investment in time and effort up front will pay dividends.
movdqa
Talk Tennis Guru
Try a little, leave it alone for a while, then come back to it. It gets easier the second, third or fourth time.
Muppet
Legend
At first I used this customizaton tool. Don't be afraid to run it again and again until you get what you want:
http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/customization.php
Now that I'm comfortable with customizing, I start by adding 2g of lead around the bare handle at 7" up from the butt end. Then I add 1g each just above the butt cap and again 1" higher than that. I re-apply the grip and weigh and balance the racquet. I use a .5" dowel glued to a surface and a retractable measuring tape tool. I find that measuring in cm for the balance from the racquet butt to the center of the dowel is easiest.
Sometimes I only need to make it a little more head light and that can be achieved by adding a gram or two of Blu-tac inside the butt cap's trap door (if it has one). If the first modification made the racquet too head light, That is easily counterbalanced by adding a little lead somewhere on the inner rim of the hoop. To give the racquet more torsional stability, put the lead on wider parts of the hoop. To adjust the balance more HH with minimal addition of weight, place the lead on either side of the 12:00 location of the hoop.
You don't need as much weight at 12:00 as you do at 3&9:00 to affect the same change in balance. When using lead at 3&9 or 12, if you would use 3g at 3&9, use 2g at 12. If this brings you to a weight that is short of what you want, that's a good thing. Because now you will be able to make further additions to tweak the polarization of your racquet. This is pretty easy. Adding weight anywhere from the throat to 3&9 will make your racquet more stable, or clubby, and more de-polarized. Adding weight low on the handle and around the top of the hoop will make the racquet more polarized.
For a final addition or removal of weight to nail your balance, adjust the amount of Blu-tac in your butt cap little by little. For more information about racquet polarization, just do a search in this forum.
http://twu.tennis-warehouse.com/learning_center/customization.php
Now that I'm comfortable with customizing, I start by adding 2g of lead around the bare handle at 7" up from the butt end. Then I add 1g each just above the butt cap and again 1" higher than that. I re-apply the grip and weigh and balance the racquet. I use a .5" dowel glued to a surface and a retractable measuring tape tool. I find that measuring in cm for the balance from the racquet butt to the center of the dowel is easiest.
Sometimes I only need to make it a little more head light and that can be achieved by adding a gram or two of Blu-tac inside the butt cap's trap door (if it has one). If the first modification made the racquet too head light, That is easily counterbalanced by adding a little lead somewhere on the inner rim of the hoop. To give the racquet more torsional stability, put the lead on wider parts of the hoop. To adjust the balance more HH with minimal addition of weight, place the lead on either side of the 12:00 location of the hoop.
You don't need as much weight at 12:00 as you do at 3&9:00 to affect the same change in balance. When using lead at 3&9 or 12, if you would use 3g at 3&9, use 2g at 12. If this brings you to a weight that is short of what you want, that's a good thing. Because now you will be able to make further additions to tweak the polarization of your racquet. This is pretty easy. Adding weight anywhere from the throat to 3&9 will make your racquet more stable, or clubby, and more de-polarized. Adding weight low on the handle and around the top of the hoop will make the racquet more polarized.
For a final addition or removal of weight to nail your balance, adjust the amount of Blu-tac in your butt cap little by little. For more information about racquet polarization, just do a search in this forum.
Last edited:
EasternRocks
Hall of Fame
I want to revive this thread and get other people going with replies.
Username_
Hall of Fame
Wish granted
EasternRocks
Hall of Fame
Is it true for all cases, objectively, for lead at 3/9 to flatten out your shots and then at 12 to increase your spin?
So inherently say I have a spin-friendly racquet, will my racquet lose some of its spin potential if I gave it lead at 3/9?
I'm not a Rafa, so I've never been a 12 guy, albeit I tried it once and found the racquet to play too cumbersome even with a 20 mm flat beat. Curious to know what kind of racquets, again objectively, obviously need more weight at the tip and which need more weight on the sides.
I'm a player who hits a bit of spin, but hits a rather linear ball. I would like to add a bit more spin to my game.
So inherently say I have a spin-friendly racquet, will my racquet lose some of its spin potential if I gave it lead at 3/9?
I'm not a Rafa, so I've never been a 12 guy, albeit I tried it once and found the racquet to play too cumbersome even with a 20 mm flat beat. Curious to know what kind of racquets, again objectively, obviously need more weight at the tip and which need more weight on the sides.
I'm a player who hits a bit of spin, but hits a rather linear ball. I would like to add a bit more spin to my game.
Username_
Hall of Fame
Your shots will be flatter with lead at 3/9.
Lead at the tip will make it easier to add spin. Weight at the tip always makes it easier to impart spin.
EasternRocks
Hall of Fame
Based on spec, where’s the most sensible spot to add lead for a racquet that could use some stability and plow but also some more spin so it doesn’t pancake the ball only? Is it slightly above 3/9 more in the 10/1 area? Or do you decrease the amount at 3/9 and add some at 12 so the swingweight stays constant?
Username_
Hall of Fame
I personally do 3/9 and 12. I can't comment on 10/2
Regardless of the weight you add at 12, the weight added at 3/9 (no matter how little or how much you put there) will make it more stable on off centre hits. In other words even if you put 30g at 12 it won't mean it'll negate the added stability of lead at 3/9. Your shots will just be spinnier, as well as more stable on off centre hits.
The only difference when it comes to the amount of lead you place in the different areas would be as followed:
More at 3/9 = easier to flatten
More at 12 = easier access to spin
So from the two options you listed in your post, I'd say decrease the amount at 3/9 and add some at 12.
As for your question on swingweight:
it doesn't sound like you have any lead at 12 based on your previous post, so swingweight will go up if you are decreasing the amount of lead from 3/9 to add to 12.
EasternRocks
Hall of Fame
Cool. I'll try and ask for the shop to play around with it where there can be some lead taken away from 3/9 and moved upwards on the hoop toward 12 while trying to maintain static, balance, and sw.
Matthew Lee
Professional
Bruh I put my lead on the throat and only the throat 
It's become habit, but the racket itself becomes heavier and doesn't change too much in terms of weight distribution from my experience. I usually find that I match string gauge and tension well enough so that when I do want weight, it's just for more stability. It's not like I want to make the sweetspot bigger or smaller...
It's become habit, but the racket itself becomes heavier and doesn't change too much in terms of weight distribution from my experience. I usually find that I match string gauge and tension well enough so that when I do want weight, it's just for more stability. It's not like I want to make the sweetspot bigger or smaller...
