The UT is a spectacular frame but demanding. Despite its tight pattern, it does everything every well minus the free pop that you find with other frames.
Trust me (and the other here) when we say that the new CX is not a solution. It will save you time and money.
Another thing I've learned from recent experiences and the sage advice of posters here is that you should try the frame right out of the box on its terms first. I used to be of the mindset that I needed to throw leather and lead on everything that I got. It works on some frames but ruins others. Playing the EZ and now the v7 18x20 stock has shown me that sometimes you just have to leave it alone. I couldn't imagine now trying to make the v7 more headlight.
Definitely check out the VCores and EZones, even though their RAs are upper 60s, there is some strange magic going on where they feel and play softer than that. If you are going to try out the 97HD, do a gut/poly, multi/poly hybrid at no more than 50. It's a very low powered frame.
I might know someone who has those codes
@BallBasher247
I think I've finally found my sweet spot tension wise. There's something about 47/45 that I groove with. I'm still going to try out the TB but S7T has set a pretty high bar.
Tell me more about this tour hex. Sounds like one I need to try.
Sure, you can say it has some feel. Like one of those things where you are blindfolded and have to stick your hand into something and guess what it is. That would be my best comparison. You can discern some control but it comes from proper setup and execution rather than feedback from the string bed/frame. Even with the new strings and lead, I'm still finding it to be a terribly vague frame.
As far as a car analogy, it's more like my first car: a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am. I had reasonable certainty that it would get me from point A to point B but I had no idea how or when I was going to arrive and it might die on me 2-8 times on the way.