Stringing Questions After Stringing 10 Rackets

[EvanCahill]

I created this thread to ask questions from the perspective of someone who has begun to string rackets but wants clarification on a couple of issues.

I use an alpha Revo 4000 stringing machine that I purchased off Craigslist over the winter and have strung ten rackets with the stringer thus far. My first question is if there is any way to check the amount of tension my stringer is applying to determine whether it is actually pulling the amount of tension that it shows on the side? Would I need to buy a tension calibrator to check this, and would it be worth buying a calibrator if the machine is likely to be off by less than 5 lbs?

Second question: When stringing the first main, I place my clamp in the middle of the other string that I am not tensioning, but the string often slips out of this clamp. I cleaned my clamps with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush but issue continued. My dad recommended tightening the grip of the clamp on the string (and this worked), but I am worried that this will damage the string. What is the best way to solve this problem? How tight should clamps be on the string?

Third Question: The last racket that I strung, I double pulled all the strings(I haven't been pre-stretching strings) is this something that is necessary, or is alright to only pull tension on string one time and not pre-stretch the string?

Fourth Question: I have been using this video

and other threads on tt and videos on Youtube as a guide. I was wondering if the finishing knots 26:00 and cross starting knot at 32:30 are good knots to tie, and additionally whether supergluing the knots is necessary?

Fifth Question: The video shows pulling crosses one ahead, and I have been using this when stringing the crosses on my rackets. However, when I'm near supports on stringer I don't pull one ahead. If I pull cross strings one ahead is it necessary to do this for all strings, or is it alright to not do one ahead when near the supports? Additionally, should I straighten the cross strings before pulling tension?

Sixth and Final Question: In respect to the tension difference between main strings and cross strings, I have been stringing hyper g 16L at mid tension in mains and hyper g 16L or babolat pro hurricane tour in crosses, is there an ideal tension difference between the main and cross strings or should they be the same if they are the same gauge string and same material?

Thanks again for your help. I hope this thread will be beneficial to other relatively new stringers in the future as well.

 

[esgee48]

[1] Yes, you do need to calibrate your machine if you suspect that your tension is off. You can get a tennis only calibration device or a luggage scale that is accurate. You can buy iOS Racquet Tune to check the tension of the strings that are installed on the frames. You could be higher or lower than what the machine is set on. That's not good because when you ask a shop for 55#, they will use 55# of ref tension.

[2] Use a starting clamp or adjust your fixed clamp so the string does not slip. There are a group of videos showing how to start mains using flying clamps, starting clamp and fixed clamp.

[3] You do not have to double pull the string unless you are unhappy with the final tension. You could skip this and just use a higher ref tension. It is a personal choice. For strings that need to be pre-stretched, this is another way to do it though it is not as good as a manual pre-stretch. Some say that this gets your tension closer to what a CP machine yields. Can't say that this is an absolutely true statement or not. Calibrate, then find a ref tension you like.

[4] Knots are fine. Use whichever knot you are comfortable with and holds. I use the Pro knot and the DHH for fragile strings. No glue needed unless you think it may become undone. Don't use starting knots that much, but the one shown works. If I hybrid, I normally do cross 2 and 3, then come back and do 1 and use a finishing knot. OTW, it is an ATW, which does not use/require a starting knot.

[5] Stringing one ahead saves wear on the mains and crosses since the one ahead cross is not a hard weave. It's a personal preference. With NG mains and poly crosses, I would do it. For a full bed of SG, I don't bother.

[6] Tension differentials in hybrids are based on what you want from the string job. If a client wants more spin, I would consider dropping the tension for the crosses perhaps a max of 5 lbs. For strings with different tension loss rates, you will need to experiment. There is a general consensus as to what strings should go where, but the consensus is not absolute. You need to find your own Dynamic Tension range that you or the client like for any string used.

 

[Steve Huff]

#3--You don't have to double pull, but if you do, do it for all the rackets. Consistency is the key to good stringing.
#5--Weaving 1-ahead is good practice for all strings. It usually makes it easier to weave also, so why wouldn't you do it.

 

[fuzz nation]

#2: That's one spot where the it's really tough for the clamp to hold the string without slipping. I agree with our pal esgee48 in terms of backing up the clamp with a starting clamp. This is a much better option than just cranking up the pressure of the machine's clamp - it can wear on the clamp and it can also "crush" the string too much and weaken it at that spot. Not good.

I still have the floating clamps from my first machine, so I use one of those to back up my machine's clamp when taking tension that first main or two. These floating clamps are wider and probably a little more gentle on the string compared with my starting clamp, but I doubt it's a big deal. If the starting clamp was bad for the strings, it wouldn't be a popular tool. Strongly recommend you get one for yourself if you haven't yet.

It's honestly really tough to describe the appropriate amount of clamping pressure on the strings. Maybe "gently firm" as opposed to white-knuckled eye-popping tight. It might just be a feel that you'll develop with your own clamps after some further string jobs. I feel just enough tension when I click my clamps shut that I know they're set "gently firm" enough to not slip, but that's because I've used them enough that I recognize the feel of a setting that's too loose and some string slips might happen.